I use the Minwax to dip a sealing coat (or two) on arrows, but my dipping tube stuff is getting a little thick. Mineral Spirits or paint thinner is the preferred thinner, I have read, but will this hurt PVC tubing? I'm thinking not, but wanted to get a second opinion, or three, before trying to thin what's in the tube. I want to keep it as long as I can, but will dump it and refresh the supply if necessary.

Thanks.

I heard somewhere that solvents will erode the pvc....not 100% sure. I use the wipe on poly method with good results. 3 to 4 coats.

I use wipe on also with great results. I also use water based hardwood floor poly in a dip tube and water with a 3(poly) to 1(water) mix. As far as the PVC there are different types and grades of PVC, maybe the cheep stuff(black) will erode and the expensive(white) may not.

Thanks. I think I found a chemical site that confirms mineral spirits are OK with PVC.

Off to Lowe's in the AM...

Appreciate the help guys.

Bud

Bud, it wont hurt the PVC. I used to thin mine 30-40% with it, never hurt anything.

Eric

Bud, dump it and use a waterbased floor finish (I use Parks found at Home Depot).  Never have to worry about needing to thin it.  Just add more when needed.  Get the gloss and you don't need to shake/stir it either.

Mike Vines makes some beautiful arrows so I think he knows what he is talking about.

I've tried gloss water based stuff from Lowe's. Wasn't too impressed. I (they) got target burn something horrible. This poly stuff is tough as nails for me so far.

I have a nice arrow from Mike. And yes he does make some awesome arrows. I'm just stuck on this Minwax poly for a while.

Much appreciated all.

I found some mineral spirits in my storage I forgot I had and already thinned down the Minwax stuff. I have a test arrow hanging now that's drying.

I use the Minwax wipe-on poly for sealing shafts and the manufacturer's instructions tell you like the name implies to wipe on the product and let it dry then re-apply. I use 4 coats and scuff lightly with oooo steel wool between each.
  I have experienced no discoloration from  "target burn" and what I like best about it is when the finish gets worn down near the end from 3d targets you can simply re-apply more to that area like you did to start.

Hi Mike, how is the Parks water based finish as far as target burn on 3D's?

Thanks, Rick

I use the minwax stain and poly mixed stuff. 2 coats wiped on is plenty tough.

The key to any poly finish is to let each coat dry and cure(I do at least 24hrs and when I can 48)then scuff it up (steel wool) and apply another coat and so on.

 A well dried and cured finish should hold up to target burn. I have not experienced it since I started to give a longer cure time between coats, and I shoot 70# bows and they enter the target fast.