Just started shooting a recurve the other day. I am using my arrows that i use for my compound for now. the arrows are easton axis 340s cut to 28.5 with 2" platic vanes. I plan on buying new arrows spined corectly for my new set up this weekend. Are the feather style fletchings a "must have" for better accuracy shooting off the shelf?

sorry for the dumb question and thanks for your input.

Mike

Most agree that feathers are the way to go off the shelf. If you want to shoot vanes you can buy for a few bucks stick on elevated rests. The Bear Weather Rest is a good one.

You'll likely want longer feathers or vanes as well to stabilize finger released arrows better.  Be careful shooting arrows set up for compounds because many of those involve arrows so light in GPP you could damage your bow. Many will recommend 8-12 GPP. So, if your recurve is 40# your arrow point combo should weigh 320-480 grains. I like 9-10 GPP.

Thanks Bowwild, I am shooting a borrowed Bear Kodiak Hunter 43# at 28", im a 27" draw so around 40#. Since i am borrowing the bow i would like to keep it as it. what length of vanes do you guys recomend, 3, 4, 5"?

That's a great bow youve been loaned and a practical draw weight to master the recurve shooting process.  Worst thing some do is start too heavy.

My draw is 26" and my arrows usually tune out to 27-28". It is important that arrows be very well tuned to your bow and form to maximize accuracy and eventually, for hunting penetration.

I usually shoot  4" feathers but most people shoot 5-5.5".

When I was first starting out in bowhunting, I tried both shooting off the shelf and elevated rests. I preferred shooting off the shelf and in my opinion, nothing beats feathers for shooting off the shelf.

MIke,
Most everyone here is eager to provide help and advice.  You can do yourself a favor though if you use the search function.  You can advance your recurve and longbow shooting knowledge by years (decades even) by doing this.  With 45 years of archery behind me I'm practically a neophyte compared to some of the folks here.

For example, if you want to know about elevated rests, just type that in the search window, make sure PowWow is highlighted and let the computer find the threads. I hope you don't mind being provided such basic advice.

Good advice above.  You are doing the right thing by going out to get a set of arrows that are spined correctly for that bow.  Stu's calculator shows your current arrow with a dynamic spine of about 105#, which is twice what you need for that bow.  You will frustrate yourself trying to make those arrows fly out of that bow properly.

Words of wisdom above.

If I were you before I got an elevated rest, I'd get some feathers and shoot off the shelf. Just some stock 3-fletch arrows. Weird at first coming from an elevated mechanical rest on a compound, but once you get a handle on it, it's much simpler and easier to manage. The thing about trad archery I like most is the simplicity and that most of the adjustment points are on me, not the bow.

And welcome to the obsession!

Welcome from Kentucky.

You will most likely depending on your point weight be in a .500 spine shaft. I STRONGLY advise getting one of the arrow shaft test kits and a field point test kit. Most have three different spines in them. Money well spent as you start the journey. You will use them for each bow you fool with and oh yeah...there will be more! Also more helical on your fletching will make a big difference as well over the straight fletch that is most likely on your compound arrows.

Here is an example.

   http://search.3riversarchery.com/nav/cat1/arrowsshafting/cat2/arrowsshafting_fletchedarrows/cat3/arrowsshafting_fletchedarrows_testkits/0    

   http://search.3riversarchery.com/nav/cat1/broadheadspoints/cat2/broadheadspoints_fieldpoints/cat3/broadheadspoints_fieldpoints_testkits/0

Those sound way stiff. I'd say you want an 1816, or maybe 1916 depending on point weight and 4" feathers if shooting off the shelf.

I was just about to say, go with an 1816 aluminum and feathers if you can get them. If not, then vanes will get you started. 4" would be fine. I normally shoot 4 and 1/2" feathers.

Killdeer