I am finally going to be able to purchase some arrows. While at the trad shop in Des Moines I shot some bamboo arrows that flew very strait out of my 50# Hawkeye recurve. Problem with that is I really want to be able to take the tips off of whichever arrow I end up buying quickly from judo to bh to field point w/o melting the glue off. I also do not have an alcohol burner or the hot melt. Was wanting some Gold Tip 3555 trads so I can fletch them myself, I just do not know what length to have them cut. Like I said, my grandpa's bow is 50#s at 28 inches, I draw 28.5-29. At the end of the day I want the arrow best matched to my bow so I can become as accurate as I want. So, should I go with the bamboo arrows n deal with the hassle and extra expense of taking the tips off, or just order some Gold Tips (what length?)...any advice would b greatly appreciated guys n gals.

I should mention that I have to buy feathers if I get the Gold Tips but I do have fletching tape. The cost of the bamboo arrows fletched w/o tips is $90. From Big Jim I can get GT's for about $63 plus shipping. N would just have to get feathers from somewhere (already have a fletching jig)

I know you said you don't want to use hot melt, but the glue is very cheap and you don't need an alcohol burner to melt it.  I use a propane torch (chances are grandpa has one you can borrow)...It takes less than a minute to change a point...

If you have a way to cut them, I'd buy them full length.  That will give you the ability to shorten them a little at a time until they are flying off the bow perfectly.

I would not have them cut-you need to do that as part of the tuning process. IMO
I only shoot wood and I would advise you to go with the carbon and maybe try wood, yes I know bamboo is a grass-so try grass down the line if you really want to.    

If at all possible I would go to a archery shop and tune the arrows to your bow. I did that for the first time last month and it's amazing how well my arrows fly now. I had to go to RMSG in Denver for my nearest shop (4 hours) and it was well worth it.

I shoot both wood and carbon, and like Bjorn said I would start with carbon. Then later go to wood.

There is a shop in Des Moines I just don't think he has a place to paper tune. He seems to think as long as it looks like its flying strait then that's the way to go. As far as tuning, I assume you mean using different point weights to see what is going to fly best? I don't have anywhere to cut the arrows myself, but the sporting goods store will cut them for free, n then I can put the inserts in myself (had too many mishaps with them putting the inserts in the arrows for my compound)