I have been shooting Gold Tip Traditionals for a few years now and am getting ready to build up my second dozen.

Problem is the periodic loss of inserts, adapters, and points.  

So I am wondering what glue should I be using this time around?

Last batch I used 5 ton epoxy, the 24 hour set stuff.  

I think the failures might be caused by a few different things.  One is just repeated impacts have worn down the glue.  One is heat... I use the same adapters for both field points and broad heads, and haven't taken them off the arrow to do this.  I think the heat could have weakened the epoxy enough to create my pull outs.  Another possibility is improper cleaning, I use iso alcohol.

This batch I plan to use 300 grain screw in field points instead of swapping points.

So, what do you think?  What glue should I use?  

Thanks!

I had the same problem with my gold tips. The problem is that the inside of the shaft is very smooth which doesnt allow the glue to grab onto anything.

What I did was use a chain saw file or sand paper and roughed out the inside of the shaft giving the glue something to grab onto.

Schafer

I quit useing epoxy and went to iron insert still have pull outs after Very     hard hits But I can heat    to set up)  

I rough up the inside of my GT's with a .243 bore brush and then clean with some acetone on a q-tip,  I let it dry, and then I use Gorilla Glue blue cap (super glue) on the inserts.  I have also used epoxy and had good results also.

I rough up the inside with a bore brush as well, and then use GT Arrow Glue. I still have the occasional pullout, but it works well enough.

I switch to the hot melt glue Big Jim sells it is unbelievable stuff no losses and if you damage your insert it is easy to replace just heat it with anything even a cig lighter and out it comes.   Widow

Here at the Footed Shaft I fletch with Pine Ridge Archery's Instant Arrow Glue, and I have had really good luck with Bohning COOL-MELT (blue) ferr-tite  for the inserts. The cool melt was developed for carbons. The bore brush helps also.
Terry

I feel the key to glue carbons is the proper prep.I rough up and clean everything with alcohol.I use the slow set 24 hr. epoxy and haven't had any problems with inserts pulling out with the proper prep.I will also fit my inserts,like on some brass inserts that have alittle lip overhang on the shaft.I'll mount a point in a drill and spin on the insert and filed the insert so there is a smooth flush fit.And this makes it easy to rough up the inserts with sandpaper.

I'm not sure if it would do as well with the gold tips, but I've been quite impressed with the easton epoxy used in their HIT system.  Might not work as well with the gold tip inserts and shafts, but haven't had an axis insert come unglued yet...and I miss a lot!

I 2nd Widow Sax with Big Jim's glue, it works great and easy to use.

I like golf club epoxy from golf works.  It's made to withstand impacts.  I've been shooting GTs, I don't rough them up and have never had an insert come out.

I'd go with Big Jim's, but if your installing inserts for lets say stump shooting or installing broad heads I'd try Loc-tite Black Max #380, they don't make anything stronger than this as far as I know.

Goat Tuff glue...but you better work fast.  It sets quick and won't budge.  You couldn't get those inserts out if you tried.

Epoxy is designed for gluing smooth surfaces, and carbon is just fine without roughing the surface up. The biggest key is decreasing it properly. Q-Tips and acetone or denatured alcohol work well. just don't forget the inserts as well, and use rubber gloves handling them after you degrease.

I've used that Goat tough with great results
too, but it wont take near as much abuse as epoxy.
btw....the slow cure epoxy is stronger too. i use smooth-on myself.

I use 3Rivers blue Kwik It and their scoreing tool. I've yet to have a insert come out.  I've also replaced bow tips with this stuff and they are still going strong also.

I use a bore brush attached to drill and run it in shaft. Clean with Qtip soaked in either acetone or denatured alcohol.

Soak inserts in acetone or denatured alcohol. Wipe clean. I then attach dull broadhead and wipe out side of insert one more time to remove any finger oil.

I put a small piece of painters tape over hole of insert that goes into shaft. this prevents any glue coming into insert.

I then apply epoxy inside shaft and around insert with Qtip. Using BH I push insert into shaft, rotate a couple of times, wipe any excess glue from front of shaft and then set BH to the position I want for shooting.

Thanks everyone.  A buddy mentioned the golf club epoxy.  

I'll likely have a go with that, after a .243 brush rough up, a thorough cleaning/ de-greasing.

I've used a bore brush in the past but I've switched to a steel brush that does a better job and lasts longer than the brass in a bore brush.

I've had good luck with Insert Iron and Cool Melt Ferrule Tite when I prep the shaft with a brush and clean it with denatured alcohol.  

Personally I believe the prep is more important than the glue.

Larry, you are absolutely correct!

QuoteOriginally posted by Reaper TN:
I rough up the inside of my GT's with a .243 bore brush and then clean with some acetone on a q-tip,  I let it dry, and then I use Gorilla Glue blue cap (super glue) on the inserts.  I have also used epoxy and had good results also.

2X this- I do the same thing except I use gorilla glue gel impact resistant! olds very good, haven't had a pull out yet and i've hit some concrete blocks a time or two!