MikeW maybe it may make more sense written in this manner.

Let for a second imagine you have two bows (and two shooters)

Both bows are the same model from the same manufacturer with the same materials (let's say synthetic for consistency of the ideal)

The first bow is 46@28
The second bow is 46@29.5

The bow that is shot at the same weight yet draw an additional 1.5 inches will outperform the bow draw to the same weight at 28.

The difference is time on string. The longer the arrow is pushed by the string with a given amount of force the more energy is can absorb.

There for to compare ballistic data from John's setup to that of a 28" draw we would be looking at 50ish pound range to receive the same results.  

In this case John has stated he can get a broad head scary sharp and knows his limits. GTG

QuoteOriginally posted by FerretWYO:
MikeW maybe it may make more sense written in this manner.

Let for a second imagine you have two bows (and two shooters)

Both bows are the same model from the same manufacturer with the same materials (let's say synthetic for consistency of the ideal)

The first bow is 46@28
The second bow is 46@29.5

The bow that is shot at the same weight yet draw an additional 1.5 inches will outperform the bow draw to the same weight at 28.

The difference is time on string. The longer the arrow is pushed by the string with a given amount of force the more energy is can absorb.

There for to compare ballistic data from John's setup to that of a 28" draw we would be looking at 50ish pound range to receive the same results.  

In this case Johnhas stated he can get a broad head scary sharp and know his limits.

Yeah the light bulb went off with that explanation, the way Terry wrote it I was going WTH? read it numerous times and couldn't figure it out...I've never claimed to be the sharpest tool in the shed....Thx.
 

Performance of 46#@29.5 is more like talking about performance of same bow 50#s at 28.

I will agree to that

People get so fixated over comparing weight that they hardly even notice when you mention drawlength.

With good form on that long draw, his chronograph doesn't seem so outrageous to me.

agreeing with everyone above about KE,,, he's pretty much shooting the same energy as a 50-52# bow drew back 27-28" with a 125-200gr point...

that 29.5 is a much longer power stroke,,, but adding 50grains up front will weaken that arrow spine,,,, I'd bare shaft to check the spine with 300grain FP's and then go low on the fletching if its not already to keep the trajectory flat and give some more speed (energy).

a better flying arrow with 250gr will penetrate better than a sloppy arrow with 300 all day long even at 29.5---> pushing that 3-blade through both sides it needs to be flying perfect 8^)

What are we talking about hunting here? Deer or Hogs? With that setup I wouldn't give a second thought to shooting Big Jim's on deer( they are 300 grains not 200)but if it's Hogs I'd opt for a good 2 blade like an STOS unless you have more money than brain cells then it would be an Ashby.

Just my 2 cents

If you place this arrow on the intended mark, then you will have ample lethality.

Good point Tajue17.  Zradix, your current arrow is plenty dang heavy for whitetails.  But I understand the urge to change it up.  Maybe you could still use the 300 grain head, but find a lighter shaft to offset the 50 grains.

That is not crazy on fps.  I shot a chrono and dropping 100 grains added about 20 fps - was pretty shocked, but sticking with the heavier arrow anyway.

I'd like to find a lighter shaft but I still want to use wood.
I'm already using tapered spruce...doesn't get much lighter.

Don't worry to much about lighter. Tune it up right and practice practice practice.

I know the big jims are 300 grains thats why I said check the spine after changing the head because 50grains I hope you all know it WILL weaken spine,,, we are talking 3-blade BJ broadhead on big hogs right well think about the plates on those suckas and a 46# bow (or 50 ot 53 it doesn't matter)  after sleeping on it I'd back away from the 3-blade and stick with a 2-balde single bevel just in case you come in to a huge hog.. STOS are nice but they are hard to find now.

I'd be using the 250 grain glue on.
I tried to clear that up in a later post where I wrote about a new bow/new arrows...sorry for the confusion.

Thanks for the input guys.
 

I've shot thru whitetails w/ a 47lbs @ 27'' w/ 160 Snuffer.PLACEMENT,PLACEMENT.

Most of my buddies that shoot traditional are pulling 60lbs at 28in. I shoot 53 at 30in outta my bow longer heavier arrow and same head weight and smoke the 60 pounders. I get more pass thru kills on deer than they do.

I shoot 52@26" tall tines recurve with a 650 grain full metal jacket arrow with a big jim or simmons tree shark 2" wide head.My bow can bare shaft with my fletched arrows at 20 yards and be in the group,the FMJ arrows are very skinny less friction,BIG broadheads mean big hole for arrow to slide thru,I have killed turkey and deer with this set up with no problem,as far as a pass thru of the whole arrow the answer is no,but the broadhead does make 2 holes,I like my arrow to stay in because I use lighted nocks and find it helpful sometimes to recover game.The deer I shot this year with the BIG JIM did not cut ribs it smashed them 1 on entrance and 1 on exit.If your arrows are tuned to your bow,you hit the right spot,no problem.I would use this set up on any animal,remember most of our shots are 20 yards or closer.Just my experience,good hunting

This is a topic that get hashed over a good bit. I gotta tell ya that a Big broadhead will do the job out of low poundage bows.
For the record what Terry said is very much true . A longer draw increases performance a whole lot. Dan Quillen said once that a longer inch of draw would equal near 5 -8 pounds of performance. Meaning  with a 50@28 verses a 50@29 bow the 29" will perform over 5 lbs better. I believe it.


I`ve killed a few critters and I hunt with a couple guys that don`t do internet that have killed twice what I have. We all shoot low poundage and BIG broadheads most of the time.
 My quiver is sorta like batmans utility belt during deer season. I believe in the right tool for the job. If I have found a feed tree or funnel that will let me get away with not climbing very high and I expect my shot to be 10-20 yards I will shoot a Big 4 blade Simmons or Snuffer. If I gotta climb high or in a very tight spot with very close shots the woodsman or Zwickey no mercy will be on the string.Pig hunting where I may encounter a Big hog or 50 pounder in a fast situation I keep big two blade simmons or woodsmans in the quiver.
 Bottom line to say will any particular broadhead be right for this or that ...who knows. Good judgement prevails and for me a really big two blade is best when in a doubtful situation with the woodsman in the mix as well.If I hunted on the ground for deer full time I would carry a Treeshark everywhere I went or maybe the Big Jim head or 160 snuffer.
I`ll finish up my rambling with this...There is NO magical broadhead that makes up for a poor shot.RC

QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:

Deer are just a grocery bag full of shaving cream and a few tinker toys....and one ball joint...

I think this should become my signature line!  

QuoteOriginally posted by RC:
There is NO magical broadhead that makes up for a poor shot.RC

Well stated Very WEll stated.

That was never the intention.

My only thought was to poke a bigger hole and put more blood on the ground faster.

I will tell you that it doesn't matter how much weight or draw length you have, if you hit him in the socket, your going to regrett it. Other than that, if they are sharp, even the lighter bows will handle the big broadheads.

This year, I hit one deer in the socket and only got about 7" penetration (800g arrow/ 30.5" draw and 80lb bow) using a big jim broadhead on roughly a 180+lb doe.
The shot before was a 250lb buck and I only got 14" of penetration into solid earth after traveling through the crease and out the liver.

good luck and if your skeered of it, say your skeered!
bigjim