Funny what people will say to justify their choices, ain't it?

Wish there was a way too convice folks that this isn't surgery, and you don't have to justify yoruself like that...would make conversations a lot more relaxed.

I like yellow.  Much faster than red.

QuoteOriginally posted by Ground Hunter:
I like yellow.  Much faster than red.

NO NO NO - it's PURPLE!!! - purple is the FASTEST!

 

Sorry, yellow is King, otherwise I agree with Rob, 8 std is a good compromise.

Yes! Rob I agree also ,yellow is better,and my bows have 8 std on them. Silent and little faster. I am old, older(62) and SBD just makes things better. Maxx

My father builds custom string sets for wheelie bows that surpass anything I've ever seen sold. He IMO has perfected the art. He has become quite well known for his strings statewide and beyond.

I've stolen some of his hard learned string building secrets (I'm his son so I can do that) and applied it to the Flemish string. As stated already the tinsile strength of D-97 is incredible. Here's what I've been doing:

I've been building 6 strand strings for 50-60# bows with absolutely zero issues. Twist/build your string as you normally would. Then prestress the string. By this I mean ( I built a jig to do this) put the loops over each end of the jig and start cinching her down. As I turn the wrench and the string begins to tighten you can actually see and sometimes hear each strand "seat" itself in the loop ends and entire length of the string. I take my strings to around 300# and let them sit for about an hour.

I then check for what I want my finished length to be and twist accordingly. At this point I "burnish" the string. For those not familiar, simply take a piece of nylon string, wrap it around your new string once starting in the center. Grabbing both ends of the nylon string with enough pressure to keep your wrap tight, drag it to one loop and then to the other. Do this 2 to 3 times. Keep in mind your string is still at 300# of pressure. What this does is seat any remaining fibers and gives you a perfectly round string. You will be generating some heat while doing this so don't go over board or you will start to lift fibers.

Check your length one more time (it should not have stretched much if any at this point). Serve it up to fit the diameter you desire and your set. Combine Halo serving and a bigshot glove with nylon fingers or a quality tab and I don't think you'll find a smoother, slicker release.

Put the string one your bow and it will never move again. You can still add twist or take them out (a few) to get your desired brace height. Remember this string saw 300# for a good while and will never see it again while on your bow.

Ok I got really long winded on this but saw you guys talking about skinny strings and thought I'd throw this out there for you.

Oh almost forgot, on my 6 strand strings I pad my loops to 8-10 strands for abrasion resistance.

If you made it through it thanks for reading!

Wow, this is what I love about Trad Gang. Thanks for all the responses.

To clarify, what was meant were oscillations of the string after the release but before the arrow left the string.

I am not sure if the "old archer" had ever tried skinny strings. Probably not. That is a good point whoever noticed that...

The explanations a couple of you gave for why a skinny string should have LESS oscillations does make more sense to me...Mainly the fact that the FF materials stretch less.

So I guess I can stick to my plans of sticking with skinny strings for most of my bows. Yay! I'm trying to get as much efficiency as possible out of my setup.

I did not ask what he thought about which color was fastest...I'm sure he will have an opinion about that too.

Thanks for all the knowledge guys!

Farmer Marley,

The string does not oscillate from the time it is released until the arrow leaves the string. The string accelerates forward and also moves to the side around your fingers with minor sideways motion as it accelerates forward.   The oscillation occurs once the arrow comes off the string.

On one of our last warm days, I went out with my fast taper Hill from a blank Halfbreed longbow.  I had a minimal, padded loops and serving, fast flight string on it. I found that the brace liked to be about 1/2" higher for my cedar blunts than the dacron that was on it. I must say, and yes I am bragging a bit, that I have never shot as tight to the exact spot that day as I ever have before.  this is the most accurate longbow I have ever owned and now it is more accurate by a good margin.  they must work.

QuoteOriginally posted by Ragnarok Forge:
Farmer Marley,

The string does not oscillate from the time it is released until the arrow leaves the string. The string accelerates forward and also moves to the side around your fingers with minor sideways motion as it accelerates forward.   The oscillation occurs once the arrow comes off the string.

yup.... check out the video below....

I wish there was sound on that vidio

Thanks for the clarification about oscillation of the string...Great video demonstration too.

Hmmmm, now his statement makes even less sense...