Quinn Stallion 50 @ 28" shelf cut 5/16" passed center. 14 Strand D-97.  I am pulling to 29.8" so somewhere around 53 pounds.  Off the shelf, I have the right side of the tip of the shaft just to the left of the string when lined up with center of limbs.  Padded out the strike plate to put me
-1/16" passed center.  I am using a 2117 shaft cut to 30" with 100 grains.  Bareshaft at 12 yards is coming out of the bow hard right and of course hitting about 6-8" right of where I am looking.  Which tells me that the shaft is way weak. When I put all these numbers into Stu's calculator it actually shows the opposite...my shaft is way too stiff and the bow has a lot lower spine requirement...I don't understand why this arrow is shooting so weak?  Any input?

First, put a much heavier point on. Try 200 grains. A very stiff shaft can bounce off the riser and give you all sorts of wacky flight.

Jason if you want to shoot alluminum arrows I would recommend a 30-31" 2020 with a 100 grain point. With your long draw you have a much longer power stroke. As for Carbons I would recommend either a 400 or 340 spine depending on point weight.

Are you saying 100 gr point weight?
when I put the numbers into Stu's calculator, I see 145gr point and a 26gr insert coming pretty close, assuming you are in  fact 1/6 past center with your padding.

QuoteOriginally posted by Bladepeek:
Are you saying 100 gr point weight?
when I put the numbers into Stu's calculator, I see 145gr point and a 26gr insert coming pretty close, assuming you are in  fact 1/6 past center with your padding.

Yeah, 100 grains...I could have put it all in wrong...I will double check after supper.

James I don't have any other shafts other than the 2117's for now...want to try to finish the season out with them and 100 grain broadheads are all I have.  If I can't make it work, I will have to switch bows I recon.

What broadheads are you shooting? I have found very few coc broadheads that are screw in for 100 grains. With a 2117 I come up with a 30.5" arrow with 100 grain heads,26 grain insert. This is within a pound of the force your bow is putting out.

Put a rest on it and shoot some carbons, save you a lot of headaches.

QuoteOriginally posted by JamesKerr:
What broadheads are you shooting? I have found very few coc broadheads that are screw in for 100 grains. With a 2117 I come up with a 30.5" arrow with 100 grain heads,26 grain insert. This is within a pound of the force your bow is putting out.

Magnus 2 blade 100 grain.  I may use some 100 grain thunderheads...there is enough force to warrant using those I believe.

AMB...trying my hand for the first time at shooting off the shelf...I have a NAP flipper rest in the package ready to go if I need it.

The 2117s ought to be something you can tune. Get a couple of each possible point weight (125 gr, 160 gr, 190 gr.) and do some shooting with each.

Any bow will have its own quirks, and tuning is a process of letting the bow tell you what it likes. With one of my bows, I am shooting 29.5" 2117 with a 26 gr insert and a 125 point out of a 50 lb at 29" recurve with a six-strand SBD fast flight string. When I do my part, I am getting perfect flight with that bow.

You might be very close. A little experimenting will tell you what works.

Best of luck to you.
Joe

Jason I would not recommend going to any type of head that is not coc as they bleed of too much energy. I would stick with the Magnus 100 grains. As I said try cutting your 2117's to about 30.5" and shooting a 100 grain field tip and 100 grain Magnus together. If they group together than your perfect.

QuoteOriginally posted by Flyboy718:
AMB...trying my hand for the first time at shooting off the shelf...I have a NAP flipper rest in the package ready to go if I need it.

Jason, been there and done that, I'll stand by my recommendation.

if it's shooting week, then pad the strike out further.... the type of strike material used makes a difference too. what type of strike plat have you got going? a softer material will show week over a stiffer strike plate like leather.

another thing to try why you are playing with it is try shooting cock feather in

I think Looper is right.They have got to be stiff and bouncing off the shelf giving a false weak indication.I think his suggestion of starting with a 200 gr point is a good one.You may even have to go heavier.

AMB...I may be putting that rest on and give shooting off the shelf a try again when I have more time.

A 2016 would solve many of your tuning problems, I need to shoot my 60# bow with similar draw to yours to use my 2117's with a 250grain field tip, soften that spine up even more than the calculators say.

You say your shaft is cut to 30". that is NOT the number to use in the calculator. You need the BOP number which will include the distance from the valley of the nock to shaft end plus the extension of the insert.

For example my draw is 30.  My shafts are cut to 30.5 signature nock adds 7/16 and 100g insert adds 4/16.  The bop for calculator becomes 31 3/16.

For the Quinn stallion the calculator automatically uses -5/16. you just need to put in the thickness of your strike plate below the box. in your case to come to -1/16 your strike plate material would be 1/4 inch thick. Most of the material I use is closer to 1/8

Best of luck.

QuoteOriginally posted by metsastaja:
You say your shaft is cut to 30". that is NOT the number to use in the calculator. You need the BOP number which will include the distance from the valley of the nock to shaft end plus the extension of the insert.

For example my draw is 30.  My shafts are cut to 30.5 signature nock adds 7/16 and 100g insert adds 4/16.  The bop for calculator becomes 31 3/16.


For the Quinn stallion the calculator automatically uses -5/16. you just need to put in the thickness of your strike plate below the box. in your case to come to -1/16 your strike plate material would be 1/4 inch thick. Most of the material I use is closer to 1/8

Best of luck.

Yeap, my shaft is cut 30" to back of point...I measure all of my shafts correctly from the valley of the nock when I cut them.  I put generic recurve in I didn't choose the stallion.  I am using a furniture pad for the strike plate which is a 1/4" thick and that puts me at -1/16" passed center.

Jason I would recommend getting some shafts that are longer than that. If your draw is 29.8" and your shaft is 30" you don't have any room between your riser and bh's for finger room.

QuoteOriginally posted by JamesKerr:
Jason I would recommend getting some shafts that are longer than that. If your draw is 29.8" and your shaft is 30" you don't have any room between your riser and bh's for finger room.

James...I am aware of that, I have not started shooting broadheads with the setup yet.  I was only shooting the 30" shaft because it was available in my 'misfit arrow pile'  I was scratching my head wondering why it was indicating very weak in the target.  After switching to an elevated rest from the shelf I think I have it figured out.