Been using carbons for the past few years, and was considering going back to wood.  Is gasket laquor still the way to go, or has something new hit the market that I am not aware of?

gasket lacquer is easy, quick, has practically no fumes and super easy clean-up.

Gasket Lacquer and the Eco Dipper is easy as it gets, I just found an arrow that sat out in the woods for 6 months, found it while out shooting the other day, picked it up and started shooting it with no problems!

I use Pro-Fin from Daily's. Durable hard finish.

I've been using Minwax wipe-on polyurethane with excellent results...

GL is inferior (for "fair-weather" archers), no way if you want the most marginal moisture protection.  I've seen this stuff crack and feather fall off on one trip when my partner used the stuff.  Maybe it is good for pencils....

If you want truly waterPROOF arrows use Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, A Spar varnish, or Daly's ProFin.

Agreed Steve. GL is no good for me either. I made many dozen shafts before I decided it was J-U-N-K. It wasnt a hasty decision on my part.I wipe on 4-5 coats on Tung oil now, be it boo or wood shafts.

Dalys, Dalys, and Dalys..... Profin formula IMHO and because snag taught me....

I dip mine in Parks Wood Floor Finish.  It's water based, and not only give excellent protection, it makes the arrows look like glass.  For hunting, just steel wool them and your good to go.  Duco sticks awesome to it (almost looks like it melts right in), but superglue turns white where it is applied.  So I just quit using super glue.

Wait 24 hrs between coats and steel wool between coats.  You will be happy with the results.

When using minwax or tung oil, what feather glue works best?  Are you dipping the arrows or applying with a brush/rag?

I've used massey's epoxy finish, works well, very durable.  Wipe on poly is super easy and ready to use.  May have to try this Daly's stuff though, wonder if I get a famiy discount?

I use Tru-oil for most of my arrows or pine pitch varnish for my primitive arrows. When I made cedars I would dip in water based poly.

Duco with solvent based like Helmsman, et al.

I soak in Watco Danish Oil until they won't take any more.  I made a soaking tube out of 3" PVC pipe.
Adds as much as 40 grains to the shaft.  Works on any wood and duco adheres to it. It's not a surface finish so it won't crack or flake and can't be breached with scratches or dents.

Steve nailed it. GL has let me down in TN gully washers... Small wonder Alaska hunting proved too much for GL.

Don't waste your money! Fast and easy ain't what you're looking for in this biz.

QuoteOriginally posted by Bear:
Steve nailed it. GL has let me down in TN gully washers... Small wonder Alaska hunting proved too much for GL.

Don't waste your money! Fast and easy ain't what you're looking for in this biz.

Well fast and easy works fine for me in Northern Michigan, Northern Wisconsin and the past 2 years in ND.....  and I shoot out doors year round... NEVER had cracking or "water damage" using GL....just sayin!    

Daly's Pro Fin.

I also have to wonder about the cracking peeling thing. I've seen other folks say the same thing but I have used it and some of those arrows have been around for years and I've never seen that happen. I too have found lost arrows that were gasket lacquered and no cracking or peeling.

I have found that if you let GL get too thick it will do that craking thing.  Thinned it works great.

Bohning fletch tape is compatible with all finishes...