Why is it that you have to try this arrow, that spine,length,point wieght and so on, to get arrows to tune and fly right but you can take some primative arrows that you cut from the woods,scrape, feathers tied on front and back ,not glued full length,with stone points, that you just match up sort of close by eye withought putting on a scale and without checking shafts on a spine tester, and they fly perfect, even out of several diffrent bows? My home made arrows are of coarse natural taper with the big end with the point and skinny with the self knock, and the points i am useing are on the large side, and my fleching turned out with a good bit of twist to it so the combination of a front heavy arrow with a lot of spin may just tend to make them really stable.They feel heavy holding them in hand compared to my store bought arrows with zwicky delta's but still hit same point of impact at 23 yards where i have been praticeing this morning.

A lot of it is the natural taper.  It is kind of nature's way of incorporating all this FOC/EFOC mumbo jumbo.  The stuff really does work, and most natural shafts, either shoots or assorted canes, are seriously tapered.  Add your points to that and you have a very spine tolerant setup.  Plus, natural stuff like wood just flexes more easily, so, for me at least, it's easier to tune that than carbons.  Just my two cents, but it makes sense in my world.  

That's why I try to make all my selfbows in the mid-40 to low-50 pound range.  Pretty much any cane/tapered wood/shoot shaft will work out of them.

Maybe somebody is trying to tell us something!
Keep things simple?

QuoteOriginally posted by YORNOC:
Maybe somebody is trying to tell us something!
Keep things simple?

+2

I think someone beat Dr. Ashby to the EFOC punch line a few thousand years ago.  What many call high tech EFOC is a very old natural technology we  rediscovered.