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Broadhead / field tip question

Started by kykiller, September 27, 2011, 01:35:00 PM

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kykiller

I'm about to embark on the traditional world by the end of this season.  I have a question about tuning.  With my compounds when I shot fixed heads I just always broadhead tuned my bows to by moving my rest untill my heads and tips hit in the same spot then I adjust my sights and was ready for backstraps.  With a tradbow I will be shooting off the shelf and will be obviously be unable to my my rest up and down and left and right.  How does one go about getting your bow tunned?  Or would I be better off just practicing with my broadheads and not worry about field tips.  I currently just hunt and practice for hunting.  I don't shoot any tournaments, but I might try some trad shoots since they look like fun.  I'm sure the guy makign my bow will help me tons, but I'm abit of a research junky and always like to learn all I can.  Thanks in advance.
Do or do not.  There is no try.

maineac

Rather than move the rest up or down for porposing you would move your nock point.  There is a lot to tuning arrow, though the process is fun for many.  Adjusting point weight will stiffen or weaken a shaft ( here is a great site to help    OL Adcock on bow tuning ).  Also padding out the side plate will change the point of impact. I am sure many with better skills will chime in.
The season gave him perfect mornings, hunter's moons and fields of freedom found only by walking them with a predator's stride.
                                                             Robert Holthouser

30coupe

With traditional equipment, you will do more tuning of the arrows than the bow. There are not many adjustments to make to your bow beyond brace height, which is more to get the bow quiet than to affect arrow flight though it does have minimal affect, and nock height, which affects up/down flight mostly through avoidance of shelf contact.

Your arrows need to be spined to fit the bow you are shooting at your draw. Depending on the type of shaft, your tuning options include cutting to length and adjusting point weight to fine tune arrow flight. Wood, aluminum and carbon all behave a bit differently and react to trimming and weight in similar but more or less dramatic ways. Center shot bows are more forgiving of spine differences than those that are not.

You will need to post more specific information about your setup to get more than this general info.

Russ
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member

kykiller

10-4, It will be awhile but I will post the bow specs when I get it.  I guess the questions were jumping the gun abit.
Do or do not.  There is no try.

HB3

2nd the OL Adcock tuning method this is what I use and it works great.

JimB


BRITTMAN

Everyone has given you good info but I did want to ad this since you are new to trad. Tuning is a love hate thing when it comes to trad bows . It can be very frustating and rewarding at the same time . Stickbows are all about shooting and having fun , and keeping it simple . Tuning is a lage part of the prosess because you are shooting alot  , just dont let it stress you or you lose why we shoot trad in the first place . Enjoy the journey   :thumbsup:  

Mike
" Live long and prosper "

gonzoso

For me I just had to get the arrows tuned to the bow using field points, then I put on broadheads of the same weight and they shot the same.  

Not like on my compound bow where I was incredibly off with the broadheads on my first shot and struggle yearly to get the damn thing shooting right!
Samick Sage 50#
1970's Bear Kodiak Magnum 50#


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