I;m using a 15/35 ,125 point, 28,29"arrow with an ACX 41#@27, it seems tobe shooting very well. I was told by someone that I should be using a 35/55 goldtip.Do I need the extra weight ? Should I be using the 35/55 ? i;m pretty new to this ! thank;s

grayfeather, I think you will get a far greater response on pow wow.

I shoot 29 inch GT 1535's out of a 45# recurve and a 50# longbow.  Extra weight is good if your hunting, you could use the 3555's and leave  them long and load up the front.  If your just a casual shooter, I would stick with the 1535's.

3555's would be way too stiff for 41#@27" draw. You're on the right track with the 1535's I think. Are ACS's cut 3/16" past center?  Strike plate position is needed to really figure it out on Stu's

Stay with the 1535s.

What arrow insert are you using?

If factory insert you're already at about the 430ish grain range. Well over 10gpp.

I have a 40# @ 28 I pull to 29 and my 1535 are perfect for it. I use a 145gr tip.

I'll try to weigh one for you when I get home.

I don't think 35/55 is "way too stiff," not when considering you are shooting a speed bow.  I think you may be close to the middle and could get both to work.  But you would need to start with a full length 35/55 and add some decent tip weight.

If you want to bump up the weight and arrows are long enough, you could add some bh weight and cut your arrows down, BUT, if it ain't broke not sure I would try to fix it.

Agree the 35/55 would need to be long or a really lot of point weight. I dare say you could add even more point weight to the 15/35 and see improved flight. Shawn

My full length 1535 with 125 tip is 400gr even. 3 5" shield natural barred feathers.

421gr with a 145gr tip.

If you're shooting a 28/29" arrow I agree you may need 160gr up front or more on the 1535 cut that length.

But also like above. if'n it ain't broke.....

thank;s very much, they shoot great, i was worried they would be to light for the bow.thank;s everyone !

If that bow is from A&H Archery,  it is cut 3/16" past center. And if your side plate is the stock plate that comes from A&H that is only about 1/16" thick, that bow is screaming for a stiffer arrow. A&H cuts all their bows 3/16" past center and that my friend puts you in a whole different world then other archers.

I'm shooting a 46# @ 28" ACS with GT/5575 and 200 grain tips, standard inserts. Technically I should be shooting arrows spined at .500 ie. 3555, but to shoot heavier weight I had to move up one spine to .400, because of the bow being cut past center. I can even shoot .340 GT pro hunters 7595 with a 250 and 300 grain tip.

I ran the numbers on the Stu dynamic spine calculator, and according to the calculations, your arrows are not to far off, but your foc% is low. If you moved up to the 3555 with say a 200 grain tip your foc% would be at around 20%. It seems that everyone these days is playing with higher foc trying to get above 20%.

I shoot a R/D longbow 41#@ 28" and I pull 29.25".
I use 3555 full length and 200gr point wt barshafts just right. I also shot my broadheads with my feild points and they fly and impact the same.
I can also shoot 1535 with 145gr out of my bow that fly good but I havent bareshafted them yet.
I plan on using these for 3D. They shoot a little flatter.

Gonefishing600 is correct. I thought ACS cut their risers 3/16"past center. In that case with the stock sideplate that puts it at 1/8" past center which like gonefishing says....... calls for a stiffer spine compared to a bow that is cut to 0 or +