bow:  60" 47lbs @28  wood recurve by chris at lewis hollow model: deadend  Brace height 6 7/8
Draw 30 inch. Fastflite type string.  I love this bow and want to get it shooting with just the swish of the limbs and no other noise and the arrow flying...well...straight as an arrow.

bare shaft 2413 cae magnum III 31 inch arrows 100.3 grain field point all seem to go left.

bare shaft 2016 easton gamegetters 31 inch arrows 100.3 grain field point as seem to go in line with my aim but all went low.  

Shooting distance 15-20 yards

Can someone please tell me if I learned something and what it is I learned or if I wasted my morning.  Thanks

2413s going left (as I would expect them to) indicate too stiff of spine. Slap on a heavier head and shoot again to compare.

The "all went low" of your 2016 shafts is more likely a nocking point issue. Betting here moving the nocking point will center them for you.

2 cents
God Bless
Steve

Are you right handed?

yes right handed

HUGE spine difference in the 2 arros.The 2016 is so weak that it could very well show nock high(hitting low)

You can't use the same nock height for a 2413 and a 2016. Not only are the spines different, but so is the diameter. The 2016 will require a lower nock point to hit the same elevation as the 2413.

Tired out my shoulder this morning shooting.  So this afternoon I got strings and new arrow rests for a 60" 45@28 bear Kodiak hunter and a 60" 40@28 Shakespeare ocala and I also have a 58" 40lb@28 Shakespeare nacada so now I'll have 4 bows to experiment with.  The 2016 should be more appropriate for the 40lbs.  
When I first got my 47@28 lewis hollow bow it seemed that it didn't shoot to my natural point of aim that I acquired from shooting archery since I was 12 years old. I'm figuring I haven't found the correct arrows yet.  At 30 inch draw and 31 inch arrows for a 60" 47@28 bow what is a good arrow I should be working with?  The 2413 were what I used with a 50lb bow I have but the limb split.  The 2016 are what I used for my 40lb bows.

Your 2413s should work for you.  You'll need to go with a pretty heavy head. I'd say 200 grains would be close.

You can download Stu Miller's calculator and plug in some numbers yourself.  It's really pretty simple.  You will need to know a few basic things about your bow, though.

First, you'll need to know what the poundage actually is.  Sometimes what's on the bow isn't exactly right.

Second, you'll need to know what your actual draw length is. The best way is to mark an arrow and have someone watch you shoot.

Third, you'll need to know what type of string you have and how far from the centerline of the bow your arrow rest is.

From there, you just plug in the numbers and it'll give you a suggested spine. You can then pick a shaft, point weight, insert weight, etc. I've found it to be pretty close. Others haven't. You'll just have to try it and see.

eyeballing it with the bows I have I'd say the only one that is not cut past center line is the one I'm struggling with...the 47@28 60".   I remember the first time i shot it arrows did not go where I was expecting.  I had to compensate to the right.   It struck me yesterday when I shot my 40lb@28 necada for the first time in a long while with the 2016 my first two shots completely missed the target to the right I had to dig them out of the backstop tree trunk
The string is a not the old style dacron.  It's
twisted black and brown. It came on the bow.  Presumably it's a fast flight.

I've been measured before when bought some of these arrows I'm using at an archery shop.  They wanted to make sure I really had a 30 inch draw.

I'll look for some 200  points and give those a try ....  

I'd email Chris at lewis hollow and ask him about center line but I've seen that he's rather busy trying to catch up after a passing in his family.

Does anybody ever take a file and sandpaper to their bow to get a more favorable center line?

Hallelujah ....my 2413 arrows are going to my point of aim.  Found some 150 grain field points laying on my bow rack shelf.  Put those on and lowered the knocking point a tad and now I can hit to my instinct.  Tomorrow I'll pick up a couple 200 grain points so see if I can get any better.....and to think I was pondering buying a compound bow... oh well, if traditional was easy everybody would be doing it...no wait...everybody who matters is doing it :-)

My thanks to those of you who helped.
Jim

Cool. Don't file on your riser. You'll ruin the value. Plus, it might weaken it too much.

How are those 2413's flying I would think they would be way overspined for that bow.