I have been trying my luck at bare shaft tuning.  I think I got it pretty close.  The arrows seem to be hitting just about the same spot.  My question is they are hitting the same spot but the nock end is pointing to the left.  What do I need to do to get them to hit at the same angle as the fletched arrows.  Thanks for the help.

Depends on left or right handed...and how you want to go about fixing it.

There are a million posts here already on how to bare-shaft tune your arrows.  A quick search will get you an answer right away...

If you are right handed, this nock left indicates that your arrow is under spined.  Try shortening it by 1/8 increments until the shaft is perpendicular when shot into the target.  Shortening the shaft will have the effect of stiffening the spine.  

If you are left handed, then the pic indicates that the spine is too stiff.  The adjustment then would be to add weight to the front of the arrow, thus having the effect of weakening the spine.

I was understanding, that as long as the point of impact is the same, all was good. And by your pic, looks like you are good in my opinion.

The angle has more to do with form.  And most people are not good enough to shoot bareshaft perfectly straight.  I definetly am not.  

Someone please correct me if I am misled.

I am shooting 175 grain tips.  If I lower my tip weight this will have the same effect as cutting my arrow a little shorter?  I am shooting 2117 arrows with 175 grain tips and 31" long.  RH 45# @ 28"

Where are your broadheads hitting compared to your field tips? From how far away did you shoot those arrows? Chris

Yes.. lowering pt wt increases spine just as cutting off does.

I shot this at ten yards.  I have not shot any broadheads yet.

I am far from a pro but as long as my arrows hit together at that range and my broadheads shoot with my field tips I would call it good. I don't pay any attention to the way my arrows are sticking in the target as long as everything, fletched, bare shaft and fletched bheads groupd together. Chris

Try backing up another 10-15 yds before you do anything else. At 10 yds your arrow is still flexing in flight & this can confuse the issue.

Looks perfect to me.  IMO you want the bare shaft a little weak because when you put feathers on the arrow they will make it act a little more stiff.

If they are hitting the same spot and are level (front to back, as indicates a proper string nock position), then fletch them up and go.

What Rob said!!!!! A nice group at 15 can really seperate at 25 or more. I woudnt bareshaft but fieldpoint to broadhead tune at distance now.......

Thanks for all the help.

Looks good to me...unless you have a perfect release and no wind. I'd take it personally. As a matter of fact, I wish my bareshafing looked that tight  

The final test is broadheads. If they shoot straight you are good to go. If not, I'm inclined to say that a 2117 is too stiff for your bow weight so you would need to add weight to your points.

The only thing that is important is that the arrows group together. As Rob said, the arrow continues to  flex - the size of the flex decreases the longer it is in the air. I would not rely on the tail direction in the target unless I was more than 20 yards out, and then only if my form is perfect.  The paradox will play a lot of tricks on your vision and in the direction the tail points in the target.

If they are still together at 25 to 30 yards you are good.  It is best to shoot several groups and average your results before deciding. If they are underspined it will show at that distance by the impact location.

Got to agree. 10 yards is too close to tell. Drop back to 20 and see how they group. Once you get that grouping well go somewhere safe and shoot fletched broadhead and field points together.

Put some fletch on them and you are good to go.

We tend to make things more difficult that is needed.

ChuckC

You're on the right track.  I would agree that backing up a little will show even more.  I tune until the POI is the same and don't worry too much about the angle on bareshafting.  After getting close bareshafting with field points, move on to fletched broadheads and fletched field points.  Just in case you haven't heard it before, never bareshaft with broadheads.  To save some time and refletching, shoot your broadhead first when tuning them to field points.  Or shoot at different dots and compare.

I'd say you're pretty close already and most likely won't see a huge difference w/ BHs.