If you have a bow that uses a plunger why would you not make it a true center shot bow?

If you are using a finger release, you will still need paradox for clearance. Position of the plunger will depend on the type of arrow you are using. Carbon can pretty much be at true center. Aluminum is set just to the left (right handed archer). Plunger tension is also important.

My plunger is set up so that when you center the string it is right down the middle of the shaft.

I do like to play around a little with diffrent things. what I have so far is: a 66" Qarbon Nano 54# @ 28. shooting 300 spine full 32 1/2 arrow at 580 gpi. at 200fps. on a true center shot with 200 grains up front. the bow is running 64#'s at my draw of 31 5/8ths. Arrow flight is dart like.  I am always however looking for other ideas to try. Always looking to improve.

Mr. Carlson and Mr. BobCo Thank you for your reply if you have any further insights I would greatly like to hear them. Thank you Ric

The way i tune my plunger  is to set it as described...string centered down the middle of shaft. I loosen up the tension on the spring so that I know the arrows will shoot weak. I then increase the tension one full turn at a time until the arrows start to shoot stiff. Then I let off the tension 1/4 turn at a time until the arrows are consistently shooting down the middle. The final fine tuning is with a bare shaft and then with broadheads. Once I have gotten to the bare shaft testing and have that dialed in I have never had a broadhead shoot poorly.
Hope this helps.  

Thank you Mr. Carlsen I will most certainly use that sir.
Again my thanks sir.
Ric

Thank you Mr. Carlsen I will most certainly use that sir.
Again my thanks sir.
Ric

I would suggest using Eastons Tuning Guide for setting Center Shot with the Plunger. Personally, when I use Easton Aluminum Carbon(X10), I set the plunger dead center shot. But if I use aluminum or wood, I set the centershot to the left (I am right handed), this is consistant with the Easton Guide.

For spring tension see the diagram below. Start by setting the plunger as tight as it will go and shoot at 10 yards. Back off 1/4 turn at a time and shoot some more (keep repeating this step, and record your spring tension). At a certain point the POI will start to change. This should continue for a few complete turns. It will stop when then the Spring is set too loosely. You are going to want to set the plunger at the mid point. See diagram below:


   

Hope this helps.

Thank you Mr. BobCo I will use this imformation also. Thank you Ric

Sorry to dig this thread out but I didn't want to start a new thread for info that is similiar to this.

My questions are......

I shoot a Morrison 13" Metal ILF riser.

1. Can I use a plunger/cushion button without an elevated stick on rest (T-300) ?  Or do I really need to use a stick on elevated rest with a cushion plunger ?

2. Is the ******** shorty plunger good or do you recommend another ? Seems there are a ton to choose from on the ******** site. I don't mind paying more for better quality/reliability.

I remember as a kid, they were putting plungers on almost every recurve out there. Yes, they worked, but now that I'm older, that's just one more doomaflotchy I'd rather not have to mess with. Funny how we become our elders.  

Tom, I completely agree with you. I don't know why I'm heading down this road again  :D   I'm completely happy shooting my Shrew CH without any high tech gadgetry but I thought I'd give this ILF thing a try.  :D