I am not comfortable with Stu's calc on woodies.

Does this look right?

 

I know the weight and cut from center on the bow is right as I have measured both. This is a belly/back fiberglassed old bow from the 70s. It's one you could buy from Bingham and finish yourself. It is D-shaped when strung and straight when unstrung. Hand shock is definitely there.

I want at least 10gpp and it looks like this is about spot on.

I want to order some heavy woodies which leads to my next question. Who sells 32" shafts that are about 450gr per shaft raw? I'd like to go with Surewood Douglas Fir if possible.

I'm thinking about taking this heavy guy (for me anyway) to the woods if I can get an arrow to tune out of it.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Everything looks very good, but I've got one question. The strike plate position of 3/8 you entered. Is this with or without a strike plate attached?

As an example. Both of my bows are cut 3/16" past center. This equates to (-3/16). My strike plate thickness is 1/8" thick. This equates to (+2/16). The final strike plate position for both of my bows is (-1/16).

The 3/8 is with strike plate. It's definitely out there and almost looks like a stick bow with no shelf. The strike plate is thin leather that's less than or equal to 1/16; maybe more on the lines of 3/64ths thick.

Thanks for the input.

Bud

I wouldn't hesitate to go with Douglas Fir shafts.  Just from my experiences, they are superior to cedar (durability, weight and straightness).

Thanks Mike.

And thanks for the PM.

Bud

For me, I found I need 10lbs more spine than the calc says w/ wood. The calc is on w/ aluminum and carbon though

It looks good to me also. But I don't think you'll be able to get 31"bop. If you go with 75# spine weight Surewoods cut to 30"bop you'll have 9.9 gpp, 641gr arrow.

thanks...keep the input coming if you have a suggestion worth putting in type  

Bud, I just ordered 2 dozen Surewoods yesterday. These are to be my first woodies and I had a lot of questions about what spine and weight etc..

Anyway, I called Steve at Surewood and he was great. He turned me on to some shafts that will put me right where I wanted to be. I ordered them tapered for nock and point, with a shaft taper to 5/16" on the nock end. They usually sell them 32", but they cut some shorter for quality control so I was able to get mine cheaper as I draw 27".

I'll PM you his number.

I called Steve. Gonna commit early next week sometime after one more conversation.