I've been asking a lot of questions lately, sorry for anyone getting annoyed. I'm shooting 29 1/2 on a 55 @ 28 Damon howatt hunter. I'm thinking about buying 2020 legacy shafts from the classified. Might be a bit stiff but I thought I could load the front.  My question is, when bare shifting, do you glue the inserts in on every cut? Or do you just shoot 1 arrow unglued, and pull the insert every time? Trying to do my research, I have limited resources, and not even a fetching jig yet.

Not a bad question.  Some guys use hot melt glue with aluminum to glue and remove during tuning.  A butane torch does the trick for heating and reheating.   I use a wrap and a half of electricians tape at the juntion.  Depending on what you're shooting into.... its a great quick option.  There are many ways to skin that cat.  With carbon you cut from the nock end, but that isn't really an option on legacy shafts.

I use hot melt too.  Just stick in a field point and heat it up and pull it out with a pair of pliers.  Make your cuts and hot melt it back in.

A 2020 spines at about 80#@28 inches.  You're drawing 59# or so at 29 1/2 inches.  If memory serves, the Hunter is cut to center.  IMO, you should be good to go.  Cut to 30 1/2 to leave an inch overhang behind the point, and fletch and shoot.  A lot of folks get caught up in bare shafting, but it seldom is necessary.  I don't do it unless I find an arrow that just won't shoot for me. To be safe, you might want to try just one or two arrows.  If you do bare shaft, you do need to glue the inserts.  Otherwise you'll leave a lot of points/inserts in your target.  You might try not gluing the nock inserts (doesn't make any difference what end you shorten the shaft from with a parallel shaft), but they have a tendency to pop out when not glued.  Good luck.

i started using saran wrap to hold inserts in while tuning and am still using them for 3d. they hold well and if one does work loose a just wrap it again.

4 lb fishing line.

Rusty

On aluminum shafts i glue in every time, its easy with hot melt glue, just leave the field point in, heat up the shaft and pull, cut, heat up and put back in, does not take much heat at all.. Most time i can get several cuts before i have to add more glue.. I hate when i lose a point and insert in the target

I just want to say thanks to everyone for the great tips. Every post was helpful.  Now if you all could help me with patience on getting arrows, I would be all set.  I guess I could ask another question while I'm at it, what do you all suggest for a cool traditional feather, and what is a decent yet inexpensive jig? Buying all of this stuff has nickel and dimed me, and I've got a little one comin in 2 months