I grew up using POC for arrows, but from what I hear and see personally the wood seen today isn't what it once was. I have been seeking an alternative that is easy to work with, stable and won't break the bank; to this end I ask what your experiences have been with Sitka Spruce. What are its machining qualities, will it taper well and how does it respond in comparison to POC to a 10" taper from 11/32" to 5/16". Will it stay straight like POC or will it act more like the ash I tried.  Lastly what the GPI range of 11/32" 60-65 and 50-55 the two weights I use with POC..

I found them to have good straightness, slightly heavier in weight, but missing the nice odor of POC.  Can't say about tapering.  I shot them as parallel 11/32" shafts.

I have tapered and footed some Sitka Spruce and they shoot very well.

Incredibly tough, I missed the target butt at 40 yards and had a direct impact with a granite boulder.

Other than a mushroomed field point and some scuffed paint in the crown area, no damage at all.

Good strong arrow material and easy to taper as well.

Charles.

I only use parallel shafts so can't help you with the taper question but here is a list of weights that may help you. These are the weights of matched dozens for the respective spines:

60/64
348-351
343-348
357-362
355-357
353-355
352-353
362-364
372-377
369-372
367-369
378-384
364-367

50/54
310-318
307-311
319-321
336-343
332-335
318-319
344-353
326-329
322-324
324-326

Hope that helps.

Guy

I never tapered mine. But I like them. They are pretty tough and stay straight. Gary

Thanks, that's the infomation I was looking for..

Now I just wonder how hard they are on blades compared to POC.

If you mean how do they taper, I always ground my tapers when using Sitka spruce.  I believe it was Mr. Hildebrand that told me they have to be ground because of the very fine grain. The wood tends to rip with the pencil sharpener type taper tools.

QuoteOriginally posted by Pack:
If you mean how do they taper, I always ground my tapers when using Sitka spruce.  I believe it was Mr. Hildebrand that told me they have to be ground because of the very fine grain. The wood tends to rip with the pencil sharpener type taper tools.

Yes that's what I was asking.. Thanks

I should clarify and add that I tapered the back 10 inches of the shafts from 11/32 inches to 5/16 inches after footing them.

Charles.

QuoteOriginally posted by jarhead_hunter:
I should clarify and add that I tapered the back 10 inches of the shafts from 11/32 inches to 5/16 inches after footing them.

Charles.

Did you use a plane or did you grind/sand the 10" taper

It's a good alternative to POC. I never tapered them..

Might find this interesting.
Shows Sitka as less dense ( lighter ) than both cedar and fir. I have read sitka is one the very strongest wood in wt/strength comparisons.
There is a reason why the "spruce goose" isn't the cedar goose.
 

I just did a quick Google search for the specific gravity of Sitka Spruce and found it noted from .36 to .43, both less and more than that chart shows.
Wood isn't a homogenous material like aluminum so there will obviously be some variation.

Guy

I used a taper plane.

Worked out pretty well.

Charles.

QuoteOriginally posted by Grey Taylor:
I just did a quick Google search for the specific gravity of Sitka Spruce and found it noted from .36 to .43, both less and more than that chart shows.
Wood isn't a homogenous material like aluminum so there will obviously be some variation.

Guy

Sure, That's why we have to weight match the shafts...it's too bad wood isn't as homogenous as Al...darnit..    
I wasn't trying to post an "end all" chart.
It does seem to show a decent average of wood species properties.
As always YMMV...

The coefficient of variation for wood properties as shown in the chart Zradix posted is around 40%, which means you can find lots of variation in the weight of shafts, as well as stiffness. The chart is from an article I did for Longbows & Recurves magazine back in the '90's.

Tradgang is awesome!
That's great to know Mr. Stokes.
Thank you!
 

thanks again...