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Beman Classic MFX question

Started by RodL, March 20, 2011, 09:36:00 PM

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RodL

As a result of one of my post on skinny carbons I have ordered some classics to try. When I was bare shaft tuning my other carbon arrows I always cut the shaft from the nock end so I didn't have to remove the inserts, can I do the same with the classic shafts while tuning them to my bow?

Rodney

Tomas

That's what I do, if you epoxy them in you have no other choice.You could hot glue a few inserts in but I don't any point in doing that. I can't remember where I read it, but in an article they said when cutting carbons you should cut equal parts from each end. I think that's getting a little to fussy for me.

JRY309

With most carbons you can cut from the back end for tuning.Except tapered carbons like AD's,only cut them from the front end.I tune all my carbons by cutting from the front end because I like to tune mine with the arrow wraps on.I tune mine with saran wrap,I'll take alittle saran wrap and push it in with the insert.It will hold the insert snug enough for tuning.Its quick and easy to tune without gluing your inserts in first.You do need a softer target to shoot into like a bag target that doesn't grab too tight.I shoot through a shallow box  about 2" thick.The box will hold the angle of the arrows position and the bag target doesn't grab too tight to pull the insert out on arrow removal.This is how I tune all my carbons,it has worked for years for me.

Jack Guard

What you are doing will work just fine.  Unless you have a tapered shaft.

I prefer to use hot melt or plastic grocery bags at first.  I can change the point insert fairly easily with those two methods.  

And yes its best to cut length off both ends.  Seems as though the straightest part of the shaft is in the middle.  

Does that make sense ?

Good luck.  Let us know how you make out.
TGMM Family of the Bow
Proud Member of the Twister Twelve

Javi

I just use hot melt, easy in... easy out...
Mike "Javi" Cooper
TBoT Member

RodL

Thanks guys, hopefully I will not have to cut them to many times to get good arrow flight.

Rodney

tradtusker

no point using hot-melt on HIT inserts.
Epoxy Inserts in and cut from the back
There is more to the Hunt.. then the Horns

**TGMM Family of the Bow**

Warthog Blades

Andy Ivy

ishoot4thrills

QuoteOriginally posted by tradtusker:
no point using hot-melt on HIT inserts.
Epoxy Inserts in and cut from the back
X2

I NEVER use any kind of heat   :nono:   at all on or around carbon arrows. I learned a long time ago not to, after ruining a few of them when I applied a small amount of heat to a target point and ended up warping the end of the shaft. Heat and carbon just don't go together.
58" JK Traditions Kanati Longbow
Ten Strand D10 String
Kanati Bow Quiver
35/55 Gold Tip Pink Nugents @ 30"
3 X 5" Feathers
19.9% FOC
49# @ 26.75"
165 FPS @ 10.4 GPP (510 gr. hunting arrow)
171 FPS @ 9.7 GPP (475 gr. 3D arrow)
3 Fingers Under

Javi

It isn't really that difficult to use low temp hotmelt to glue in inserts for carbon shafts.. just be careful to heat the glue and just warm up the insert... then dunk the shaft in a glass of water to cool quickly..

In 15 years of doing this I've ruined one shaft and that was because I got careless and tried to hurry... Had to many inserts and points pop out when using the super glues and quick epoxy... Plus when tuning I use both fletched shafts and bareshafts.. then when tuning BH's I use fletched and it's a pain to refletch if I need to trim a 1/2"
Mike "Javi" Cooper
TBoT Member

SS Snuffer

What Mike said (Javi). Done this for many years. Just don't put a flame on a carbon shaft.
Chuck
Kodiak Mag 52" 41 lb.
Kota Kill-Um 60" 42 lb.
Kanati 58" 38 lb.
Black Hunter Longbow 60" 40 lb.

No Guts - No Story

Bowwild

I like the Saran Wrap tip for snugging up the HIT gear while tuning! Haven't tried it but I will.


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