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wood and broadheads

Started by troutbum1, November 13, 2014, 05:27:00 PM

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troutbum1

I have 6 cedar arrows uncut 45-50 #. I have a 62" 45#@28 recurve bow. I draw 28". I want to mount 145 Grain Bear glue on broad heads them. What length should I cut the arrows to, 29" or 29.5" for mounting broad head. Do you think this combo will be O.K. for deer. or will the 145 grn weakin the spline of the arrows. I want to try wood instead of aluminum this time. Thanks.   :dunno:
I hunt & kill game, I don't harvest

ChuckC

If the arrow tunes for that bow, it and a sharp Bear broadhead will kill anything you will run into in MD.

Make sure you have clearance for the broadhead when you cut the arrows.
CHuckC

Knawbone

At 28 in. draw you will want your arrows about an inch longer at 29 ". You may find your bow shoots them alright, but I think you would be better off with a 50- 55 spine arrow for your set up. I have more experience with a long bow set up, but with a center cut recurve, you could even go to a 55-60 spine with a 145 grn head I would think. Hope they work for you. Cut one and try it!
HHA 5 lam Cheetah 65" 48@26
HHA W Special 66" 52@26
HHA W Special 68" 56@28
GN Bushbow 64" 56@29
21st Street Chinook 64" 58@28
Kota Prarie Nomad 60" 47@24
You can do a lot of things when you have too W S Butler My Grandfather

don kauss

I agree with Knawbone...
But they might just fly terrific...!

Congratulations on your choice to hunt with WOOD!!! The best way to go (for me & a few of my closest friends)

Treat yourself to some Kaiser Kustoms some day...
Your Chicken from McDonald's, Tyson Foods, or Perdue Farms spent most of it's life stuffed in a cage with three or four others, occupying a space about the size of a book page...None for me, thanks...

troutbum1

Thanks all, I do have some Magnus 125 grn 2 blade's. Would they be better for the arrows i have.I'm picking up some denatured alcohol tomorrow and want to get started. Thanks again.
I hunt & kill game, I don't harvest

Bjorn

Why not buy some stiffer shafting? You may be able to build out your side plate sufficiently to make it work-frankly I'm more than a little dubious. You will need more shafts anyway so you can practice with the new set up and you will break a shaft or two in the process.
I think 55/60 or 60/65 will get the job done. A lot depends on the riser cut of the bow and string type. Best of luck and keep us posted.   :archer:

hogless

I think they will work out . You can adjust your brace hight up a little

troutbum1

Thanks. I just found a dozen arrows i had made and never used for a long bow i have 65#@28". They were made by Leon Stewart,there heavy shafts , but i don't know if there 60-65# or 65-70#. I don't shoot the bow any more for the weight.I'll try a few of them too.
I hunt & kill game, I don't harvest

Ga.boy

I love the bear 145gr broadhead and use them a lot. I have a 45# @ 28" Browning Nomad Stalker recurve that I shoot 45-50#, 28-1/2" woddies from and they fly great. I started at 30" and cut them 1/4" at a time until I got them to that length. I think that you can make your combo work well with the arrows that you have. If you need to cut them shorter to increase the spine, just do it a little at a time.
Your set up is plenty potent for whitetail deer.
"TGMM Family of the Bow"

JimB

The Bear glue-ons,with bleeders are 125 gr.The screw-ons were 145 grs.

Wandering Archer

I'm not an expert, but I would advise against cutting them arbitrarily.
Personally, this is how I tune wood shafts:
Install point on bare shaft, and shoot a full length shaft. Hopefully it shoots week. Remove point, cut shaft 1/4", reinstall, repeat until shaft shoots straight, as if it was fletched. In other words, I try to get my arrows to fly perfect at 20 yards as bare shafts before I add fletching.
You can do this for every shaft, or just two, and cut the rest to match, depending on how precise you want to be.

snag

First off, they are definitely going to be too weak for that bow. Especially with 145gr heads. You need to go to at least 29" bop if your draw length is 28".  Like Bjorn said you can build out the side plate. But really for great, not "almost okay", arrow flight you'll need to go up in spine (not "spline").  It always comes down to how close to perfect do you want to get. Let's put it this way...if you get to within 20 yds of that "buck of a lifetime" are you going to want your setup to be the last thing to worry about? Or are you not going to have a worry in the world except picking that spot for your well tuned arrow?     :archer2:
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

two4hooking

bear glue-ons are about 115 grains???

Butch Speer

QuoteOriginally posted by two4hooking:
bear glue-ons are about 115 grains???
X2
God Bless

Butch the Yard Gnome

67 Bear Kodiak Hunter 58" 48@28
73 Bear Grizzly 58" 47@ 28
74 Bear Kodiak Hunter 45@28
Shakespeare Necedah 58" 45@28

Nothing is ever lost by courtesy. It is the cheapest of pleasures, costs nothing, and conveys much.
- Erastus Wiman

monterey

I would not cut them at all.  Use hot glue to fasten and start shooting and cutting till you get to where they shoot.  If you get to 29" and the are still too weak, then start building out the strike plate.  

I shoot 55  -  60 full length from a 43# longbow with 190 Broadhead with good results.
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

troutbum1

I put two arrows together today. I went with the Magnus 2 blades 125 grain, 45-50#. I'll shoot them tomorrow. Let you know how they fly.
I hunt & kill game, I don't harvest

troutbum1

O.K. Shot the 2 arrows i put together yesterday. They flew great. At 10, -15 yds they went in straigth  and level. I was a little off at 20 yds, but that was me. I watched them loose a couple of times, there was no wobble, or fishtailing.I'll use them to hunt with till i try other arrows.Than's for all the help.
I hunt & kill game, I don't harvest


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