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Best way to modify a grip?

Started by TxAg, July 22, 2014, 10:29:00 PM

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TxAg

I recently received a 10 year old Bear Montana 64" 55@28 for FREE. Can't beat free  :)

Seems like a decent bow, but it definitely lacks in a few areas....one being the grip. It feels like I'm gripping a 2x4 with a mild locator.

I like small projects, so figured I could sand the grip down to my liking and refinish that area. BUT,  I've never modified a grip before.  Any tips or tricks? All advice is appreciated.

damascusdave

I set out a while ago to reduce my herd of 40 bows...And I am finally down to 42

Orion

Yep, what DD says.  Reconfiguring the grip usually reduces a bow's resale value, but given that you got the bow for free and that those older Bear longbows really need a better grip, you'll probably add value in doing so.  I use a small 4-in-one rasp from a hardware story for the rough shaping.  Then sandpaper.

Oregon Okie

Just go slow.  I took three tries on one and finally got it where I wanted it.
"Don't believe everything you think" - bumper sticker

"Savage Blaster" - 50@31 - 63" (recurve I made with Steve Savage)
Firefly TD longbow - 50@31 - 63"
7 Lakes double shelf from a blank - 45@31 - 66"
Trident ILF w Blackmax carbons - 42@31

dougedwards

I recently shaved down the throat and palm swell of my RER Arroyo and had to re-stain. Started with a wood rasp, then coarse sanding then wallboard sponges.  It took much patience and time but it didn't end up looking too badly for my first try.  

Before:
     

During:
         
After:
          .
But you brethren are not of the flesh but of the Spirit if indeed the Spirit of Christ lives within you. Romans 8

dougedwards

But you brethren are not of the flesh but of the Spirit if indeed the Spirit of Christ lives within you. Romans 8

**DONOTDELETE**

Just be careful and don't try and make the grip to small in the throat area. a 55# bow puts about 1500 #'s of pressure on the throat of the grip. You go too far and its not going to hold....  I wouldn't advise it myself... refinishing is one thing, but reshaping a grip can easily compromise the structural integrity and you'll have a time bomb on your hands.... just saying...

jhg

One way to make it go easier is have a grip in front of you that you like that you can get from the bow you are working on.
If it takes borrowing a bow like this from a buddy do it. Being able to see where and how much to take off helps a lot. Working around the grip and not concentrating on one spot will help you avoid mistakes. Keep the big picture in mind- look at your work often.

Joshua
Learn, practice and pass on "leave no trace" ethics, no matter where you hunt.

elkken

Very interesting what Kirk says ... I once had Bill Stewart make me a riser for a set of his long bow limbs, I wanted a "small grip" and Bill sized it down to what "he" thought was far enough and I still wanted it a tad smaller ... Bill won as he put the sander away and said " this is small enough ! Turned out to be one of my favorite grips ...
Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good

TGMM Family of the Bow

Caughtandhobble

I did a grip mod to a 50# Montana. I filed to the shape I wanted, then sanded it smooth... Then after that turned out great, I stippled it. I finished it out with several coats of tru oil. All turned out well, this bow has been across the country a couple times and still holding up just fine.

I think there's a how to post on re-doing the tips. There may even be a how to on trapping the limbs to take some weight off. Good luck and have fun... This may be the perfect bow to play with your spray paint.    :bigsmyl:

Zradix

The montana grip has a lot of meat on it.
and it's dymond wood..pretty strong stuff.

You could work the locator in quite a bit.
If you want more of a "recurve" grip, you could sand the palm section flat and glue on some more wood and shape it to your wants.

Heck I'd sand/scrape the right side a bit and glue on a thumb rest while I was at it. It's pretty flat over there already.

Just go slow bud. Sand paper is your friend.
If you feel an insatiable need to use a rasp, be gentle and work from the outside in.

Don't try to remove wood quickly. It will be a fairly quick job with paper.

I've used the end roller on my bench sander for some of the locator work..it was about the right size for me.

Might wanna check around for what glue to use if you end up wanting something to glue to it.

MAY have to use epoxy to glue to dymond wood with all the plastic in it. Not so sure if regular wood glue would work.
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

NittanyRider

just a thought, but could you use epoxy putty to build the shape you want?  May be worth a try before you start sanding and filing the wood.   :dunno:  

Good luck!

What the Montana and Grizzly need is the back glass on the back of the riser.  I don't like that flat back, always feels like my fingers are going around a corner.  I dropped the heal portion of a Griz grip, I started by adding a strip of maple and a glass lam to the riser.  Then reduced the heal and those back corners.  This person wanted a grip like my old Kodiak Special, a locator with a palm filling bulbous shape, but not overly large.

Kris

Everyone has different skill sets but I love changing grips and would advise you to do the same for sure, provided you have some wood skills or similar.  

Buy a couple different radiused wood rasps, they range in price from about $7 - $14 to however much you care to spend on a quality tool.

You'll want a good vice and stable work bench as well.  My vise has "soft jaws" for gunsmithing but wood or other will serve the same purpose.  

Change the biggest thing you don't like about the grip first...shoot it a while, think about what it is that you still don't like.  Keep using this process until you arrive at a perfect grip for yourself.  Find a grip you do like and use it as a template if in doubt, then emulate.  

What do you have to lose...a free bow?  You won't screw it up, as advised above..work with calculation and forethought.  Heck, find a garage sale throw away/broken bow and have at'er..you'll develop the skills you need.  Practice is the key.

Good luck and post pics when complete.

Kris

rraming

Best way I have found is to buy another bow!

ranger 3

Go slow, its easy to take it off but really hard to put it on.
Black widow PLX 48@28
Black widow PSRX 48@28

TxAg

QuoteOriginally posted by rraming:
Best way I have found is to buy another bow!
Ha, i do my fair share of that, too.   :)

bowhuntingrn

"The first 40 years of childhood are always the hardest"

cahaba

I modify most of my grips so they are just right for me. Sometimes I use a Dremel tool with a small barrel sanding disc on it. Works fine. Just concentrate and take your time. If I have a grip I really like I use a digital caliper and take a little off measure and repeat. This is on straight handle longbows.
cahaba: A Choctaw word that means
"River from above"

Steve Jr

Good thread here I also recently got a Montana from a friend. The top limb tip was broken off about a inch down. It was 64"-50#@28 now it's 58" and about 47#@27 I took material off of the belly edges ( trapezoid) and the handle felt terrible so now it has a handle more like a shrew because I like that type of handle. I did the handle with a table top orbital sander. It feels great and shoots great. I figured what the heck it was free and I had nothing to loose. I still need to do some fine sanding and put some finish on it. The belly of the bow looks similar to a Berry bow. I will try to email you some pics when I get home.
Steve Jr


Stalker Coyote FXT LB 58" & 48#@26"
Compton Traditional Bowhunters Life Member


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