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What is your preferred arrow finish ?

Started by Brianlocal3, February 20, 2014, 10:12:00 PM

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0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

elkken

Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good

TGMM Family of the Bow

Brianlocal3

QuoteOriginally posted by elkken:
BLOOD .... lots of BLOOD      :thumbsup:  
Lol
JD Berry Taipan (original) 53@28 62"
Cascade mountain Brush Hawk 53@28 56"

neuse

What do you thin the minwax oil base with?
Dipping, Do you just dip and hang it up to dry, or do you use a gasket like you do for gasket lacquer?

Green

Neuse - either paint thinner or mineral spirits.  I had been thinning to about 25%, but my friend Bud B. above suggested 50%.  I gave that a try on some shafts yesterday and it significantly cut the dry time.  Will need more coats, but will actually end up with a better finish.
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

neuse

Ok thank you Green.
Do you dip without gasket and then let drip dry?
I will be at the store today to purchase these items.

Dave Lay

Minwax poly satin. 3 dips. Best I have ever come up with but some great thoughts here I may look at .... Good posts
Compton traditional bowhunters
PBS regular
Traditional bowhunters of Arkansas
I live to bowhunt!!!
60" Widow SAV recurve 54@28
60" Widow KBX recurve 53@27
64" DGA longbow 48@27

motorhead7963

I like a thin layer of BLOOD evenly distributed along the shaft, with a lot of dried bubbles also.

Fletcher

QuoteOriginally posted by neuse:
What do you thin the minwax oil base with?
Dipping, Do you just dip and hang it up to dry, or do you use a gasket like you do for gasket lacquer?
Thin with a good quality paint thinner.  I thin about 3:1 or a bit more.  A few thin coats makes a much tougher finish than a single thick coat.  Dip without the gasket and let them hang to dry.  The gasket requires a VERY thick product or the gasket just wipes it all off. Oil base poly will dry in about 6 hours, a little longer for the first coat, but will continue to cure for several days.   Full cure takes about 7 days depending on temp.  Once cured it is very tough.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

neuse

Ok thanks Fletcher. I am dipping some now.

Green

Fletcher's right on the money about the dry time.  It was right at six hours before I could steel wool the shafts prior to the second coat.  Will probably go three coats before cresting, but I'm very pleased with the outcome.      :thumbsup:
ASL's, Selfbows, and Wood Arra's
Just because you are passionate about something, doesn't mean you don't suck at it.

**DONOTDELETE**

Carbon is my favorite.... But....

For woodies i like Bulls Eye shellac wiped on with a rag. about 3 coats usually does it. polish with steel wool.

rockkiller

I have used fletch lac for over 30 years,but was thinking of switching to something cheaper.With the minwax what paints and glue are compatable? Will the lacquer paints bubble it?

    THANKS FOR ANY INFORMATION.  
       AL

rraming

This thread really surprises me. I use gasket lacquer, have Profin waiting, just never had time to switch.

How about marine varnish, anyone?

Triphammer

Has anyone noticed a particular increase in spine using one finish  over another? I used to used a 50/50 Deft & mineral spirits, dipped twice, & increased spine by 5 pounds or more. A great tough finish but most glue wouldn't stick. Now I use a wipe on MinWax oil based stain/ sealer. Wipe twice & no real spine change & everything sticks.

I'm going to be a bit of a smart aleck, and say carbon fiber is my favorite arrow finish!

Me and wood arrows do not get along too well!

Bisch

neuse

I just dipped some in this thinned down minwax formula, they look great. Thank Ya'll.

Where can I buy shortcuts in the bottle?

Fletcher

Neuse, try True Value hardware.  That's the only place I have found them.  There are a few places online, too.  Many places carry the spray, wish more would handle the bottles.  Great cresting paints.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

Widow's Son

Another vote for Minwax wipe-on poly. Easy to use.
1969 Bear Super Kodiak 45#
1966 Bear Kodiak 52#
2000 Black Widow MAII
46# at 28"
Roy Hall Navajo Stick, 64" Caddo 55#@28"

DaveT1963

Carbon here as well.  There was a time when I had time to work up some good wood arrows - when I did I used min wax semi gloss with dip tubes.

I just prefer to spend my time now with grand kids or scouting or a host of other things.  I seldom do more than slap three 4" fathers on my goldtips anymore...... I do miss all those fancy colors and cresting lines in my quiver though
Everything has a price - the more we accept, the more the cost

Caribow Tuktu ET 53# @ 27 Inches
Thunderhorn takedown longbow 55# @ 27
Lots of James Berry Bows

Widow's Son

I hear you Dave. I made the move to Gold Tips a couple of years ago. I still shoot woodies thru my vintage Bear bows but even those aren't made by me.  I've been picking up new/old stock Bear cedar arrows and refletching those. I seldom make arrows from scratch anymore unless I'm reconditioning old arrows someone has given me. I've got a lot of those. Someone will say "I found these old arrows, you want them?"
1969 Bear Super Kodiak 45#
1966 Bear Kodiak 52#
2000 Black Widow MAII
46# at 28"
Roy Hall Navajo Stick, 64" Caddo 55#@28"


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