My back quiver build

[TxAg]

First, I have to give credit where credit is due. I turned to the "How To" forum and got a pattern from Rob's thread (on page 2 of the How To)

This is my first quiver build so bear with me.

I modified the measurements a bit. I went 16" at the top and 15" on the bottom. I added an inch to the depth coming in right at 24". I shoot 30" inch nock to bop arrows...add a big two blade and my arrows get pretty long.

Also, I used artificial sinew so I made my hole spacing closer. I made it consistent at 1/2" for everything (except the strap).

Materials/Tools I bought:
half a small tanned cow hide $65
needles $3
artificial sinew $4
leather lace $5
leather punch set $6
(this is enough for 3 quivers and lots of tabs)

Materials/Tools I had:
box cutter
two by four and cardboard (for punching holes)
leather conditioner
ruler and tape measure

Getting Started:
     


One corner had a brand and markings so I opted to include them for some cool patina.
   

[TxAg]

Here's the piece all cut out. I will cut the bottom and the strap later. Want to get this piece punched, conditioned, and sewn up before I go any further.

 

[VictoryHunter]

Looks cool so far! Can't wait to see the rest.

[TxAg]

I measured my holes (as shown in Rob's pattern that I mentioned above). Now I'm starting to punch. I used the smallest punch and a small two by four. The wood is softer than a regular hammer and it worked nicely. I don't do enough leather work to justify buying one of the more expensive hammers at the leather shop.


My edges weren't perfectly straight but it was easy to clean them up before sowing.



A close up
   

Here it is with all holes punched.
 

[Ladams]

I will be watching this

[TxAg]

I had some Sno-Seal left over from conditioning my Arrow Moccasins so I cleaned up the leather. I did the same with the bottom piece and the strap before sowing them on.

   

[TxAg]

In the pic above you can get a good visual on the brand. I thought it was cool.

[TxAg]

Here's the worst part. I know how to sew, but I don't like it. I think the most important part was to make sure you start with enough artificial sinew. Although, you could start up again midway if you ran out, I wanted to do it all in one fell swoop. I measured ten quiver lengths and that was plenty of sinew. It makes for a lot material to pull through each hole, but it all worked out ok.


Getting started
 

[TxAg]

An hour and a half later.

The bottom of the pic is actually the top of the quiver. I started at the bottom, but took this pic from the wrong end.
 


Here's the opposite side.
 

[TxAg]

Now for the top

I threaded all the way around and then did a 180 coming back to the starting point.
 

[TxAg]

This leather was thick enough, but I wanted some extra security for the bottom. I decided I'd double up the leather for extra thickness.

I measured my bottom opening, and it was 1.5" tall and 6" wide. I cut my leather pieces and after marking and punching the first, I laid it on top of the second to mark holes in the exact same spots. That makes it easier to sew everything together.

In fact, I wish I had doubled my leather over in the very first pics and done the same thing. It would have made for easier sewing.

Anyway, back to the bottom. I rounded the corners and then started sewing. It was easier than I thought. One thing I did different was to double the sinew. I was only making one pass through each hole so I wanted extra strength.

 

 

[TxAg]

Next it was time for the strap. I decided on a two inch wide piece that was 36" long. I measured and punched holes just as I did before. The only difference is that I wanted the strap to be adjustable so I am using the leather lace instead of the sinew. This requires a larger punch tool (which is why I bought the kit).

Also, I conditioned this piece...just as I did with the other pieces.

Bottom of strap
   


Top of strap
   


It's starting to come together
   

[TxAg]

I wasn't sure exactly which angle I wanted the strap to attach to the quiver. By playing with the angles I could dictate how it would sit across my back and where the arrows would be in relation to the back of my head.

I decided on a steep angle. I let the lay of the leather help me with that. I wanted everything to lay nicely rather than be somewhat contorted.

[TxAg]

Most back quivers seem to have the stitching facing out. I believe it's because when using thicker leather lace you would want the smooth side against your body.

Since my artificial sinew was so thin, and I wanted to show of the brand on the leather, I opted to put the lacing towards my body.

Here are few pics that show the angle.
 

 

[TxAg]

The one thing I didn't mention is how I punched the holes in the quiver body.

Once I laid strap out, I made a few pen marks determining where it should attach. I used a rolled up magazine inside the quiver to protect the opposite side when I was punching holes.

[TxAg]

Here is the finished product. These arrows don't have any points (not broadheads or field points) so they'd stick up higher when actually using the quiver.




 

[pukwana]

Nice job!!!

[Green]

Nice work Jeff....and you're right, the branding is cool!      
I chickened out on my own build and have a friend building one for me.    

[abbatoys]

Thank you for showing off this build. I am going to make 2 youth quivers for my kids and this is just what I needed to get me going and just go for it...Thanks

[Bud B.]

Nice quiver.

Bet you can't build just one