Riser center cut or past center cut pros and con's?

[lunchbucket]

I was wondering is there a reason why some bows have a center cut on the riser and why some are cut past the center?Is there advantage one has over the other or does it have to do with the type of bow your shooting?

[GRINCH]

It makes it easier to tune arrows to the bow'center cut or a little pst are more forgiving as far as arrow selection is concerned.

[lunchbucket]

So if it's cut past center its more forgiving when tuning arrows?

[bowtough]

Correct.  

[cbCrow]

Not only is it more forgiving, it also will allow the use of an array of spines, according to what you want to accomplish

[Pinelander]

Yes, cut past center can be a bit easier, but can sometimes be detrimental if the arrow is too far inside the string.

I'm not in agreement that a wider range of spined arrows can be utilized out of the same bow, without changing something on the arrow or the bow. The arrow is either tuned to the bow properly, or it isn't.

A bow that isn't cut to center can be tuned to shoot quite accurately. You just have to know the in's and out's of what affects the dynamic spine of an arrow.

- Dave

[stickbowmaniac]

Like pinelander said.A bow that isn't center cut you need to know the ends and outs of tuning.Normaly you have to go with weaker spine for these bows.

[SL]

I love cut past center bows. I wish everyone would use a riser big enough to allow that option.
I like certain arrow weights and sizes and it allows me to tune the bow to the arrow as well as the arrow to the bow.
I see no negative in having cut past center.
SL

[Troy Breeding]

Most will tell you center cut or past center cut is better. In most cases they are right.

The draw back is for shooters with long draws and really a problem if you have a long draw and want to shoot a bow with a higher draw weight.

Incase your saying whaaaaat????

Long draws require stiffer spines. Add in the fact that if you like a heavy draw weight then finding a shaft with enough spine is tough.

To solve this the longdraw, heavy draw weight shooters should look at bows with sight windows that are at most cut to center.

Just another look at things...

Troy

[Blacky]

You can always add a toothpick or something similar under the sideplate to get your arrow away from the sight window and that will be the same as less center cut.

But try to cut out the sight window further for more center cut.....that's a little more complicated.    

Blacky

[joevan125]

How is the A@H ACS risers cut. I bought a new one and i have a 30in draw and it took me and Rod Jenkins 4 hours to get that thing to shoot straight.

[SlowBowinMO]

I have grown to prefer cut to center at most, and if it's shy of center that is fine with me.  It allows me to shoot the heavy points I favor without having to use high spine arrows, so high FOC is easy to attain.

The shallower shelf bow can be a bit pickier to tune, but once you hit the right combo they seem to be more forgiving.  The last "cut past center" bow I bought ended up with the shelf built out to 1/8" short of center and there it stays.    :D    

To each his own.    

[Pinelander]

The ACS is cut generously past center. When Rod loaned me his ACS some years ago, guess how the sideplate was setup? It was built OUT where it was actually cut TO center. There can be problems in shooting consistency if arrow is set too far IN.

[John Havard]

If the riser is cut past center you can tune the riser to your arrows (like Blacky said) instead of vice versa.   Having a sight window cut well past center is the ONLY way to go.  You can always build it out if your arrows are too weakly spined.

[Troy Breeding]

I have several bows that are cut 3/16" past center. As it stands now, all have had the sight window built out to no less than 1/8" before center. I did this when I started working up high FOC arrows. Now that I have them set this way I doubt I will ever own another bow that is cut more than 1/8" before center. Tuning isn't a problem and I still have a wide range of shafts to pick from.

Troy

[Froggy]

I have pretty much come to the conclusion if a bow isn't cut to center or a bit past..... It won't stay !!. The Kanati's I have for instance seem to shoot anything from a drink straw to a broomhandle equally well...   . I do have several bow that are cut out from center, and are keepers for what they are. But for ease of tuning and forgiveness the center or past ones are the pick.

Froggy

[Sixby]

I cannot imagine anyone having a problem tuning a bow simply because it is cut 3/16 past center.

I cut all mine 3/16 past center unless the customer wants something different. Then I cut it where he wants it. '

The typical comment I get is that these types of bows with cut past center windows are the easiest bows that the shooter has ever tuned. Most grab the arrows that they have been shooting. Spine right or not and hit center of target straight out of the box.

Like Mike said its easy to pad a window out but kind of hard to cut the sight window deeper on a bow that is not made to do that.

God bless you all and have a Great New Year, Steve

[Pinelander]

Yea, "easier" seems to be the overwhelming choice these days. Must have been a royal pain for archers when there were very few bows cut past center, except for those metal-handled ones.     :D

[hookster]

Past center or before center, now I'm CONFUSED. My Robertson Styk bows are said to be cut past center, for a right handed shooter, I thought that meant more material left on the shelf or strike plate,well i guess the strike plate to exact left of centerline would mean it is past center working from right to left for the right handed bow or before center working from the left. Is there standard of terminology. Could some PLEASE inform.

Aloha and Happy New Year,
Hookster

[mmilinovich]

A bow cut past center can easily be built out in the direction of center.  

A bow that is cut to center or short of center cannot be adjusted past center.

Why would anyone want to limit his options in this regard?  Makes no sense to limit.

Mark