Arrow help

[NO SIGHTS]

I was gifted an old 40# ben pearson hunter by a friend of mine and i want to turn this bow into a great little small game bow. Maybe even a short distance deer bow.

I need some advice on arrow selection. Mainly aluminum arrows for budget as these arrows will get hammered by missin rabbits and squirrels.(learned the other day i aint that good a shot on rabbits, many shots and 1 went in the freezer)

Anybody shoot light bows have a great combo i can start with?

[JimB]

To be honest,aluminums may cost you more in the long run.If you got some Gold Tip blems from Big Jim in the sponsor list,they would hold up very well and may not cost much more than the aluminums.I'm guessing 35/55's,depending on length and point weight.

[Kentucky Jeff]

Gotta agree with the above.  Carbons are expensive to buy but beat aluminum for toughness by a mile.   If you foot the front 1.5" of your carbon shaft with aluminum it will be nearly indestructible.  

Aluminum bends too easily when you miss or hit something hard...

[StickBowManMI]

I agree that carbon shafts are much more durable than aluminum shafts. I have 35/55 Gold Tips that I have been shooting for 10 years and still going strong.

[JimB]

I destroyed this 200 gr Grizzly head by shooting through the rabbit and hitting a rock.The shaft was a footed Victory VForce HV which are good shafts but thinner walled and not quite as tough as Gold Tips.The arrow,insert and all were unharmed.Only the broadhead was damaged.

I've been shooting footed Gold Tips for three years and have yet to break one,despite a lot of hard hits.

[cbCrow]

I shoot a 38# lb and use Easton blues arrows full length with 125gr Saunders Bludgeon fletched with 3 4" fluflu feathers cut down to 3/4" in front,1" in back, left offset and been shooting the same arrows for over 3 years. I use then for small game and stumpin. When I shot heavier bows I used everything the same except heavier shafts. This rig probably will shoot off that Pearson. Just leave them full length and cut down if neccessary. I get everything at Bowhunters Supply.

[NO SIGHTS]

I fully agree with you guys that carbons are tougher. I just have some alloys laying here that would cost me zero!

I have 2016 and 2117. not sure what would be better to start with. probly shoulda said that in the first place.
I believe the 2117 to be too stiff
Thanks guys

[John Scifres]

The 2016s might even be too stiff.  Use a lot of weight up front.  I use ramin shafts for stumpers and squirrels.  If you buy 'em by the hundred, they are super cheap.  Especially the 5/16" which you will need for that bow I bet.

[JimB]

They are stiff but you can make them work if you are willing to put enough weight up front and at rabbit ranges,overall weight shouldn't hurt you.I've rigged up heavy Judos by using the glue on which is 145 grs,not 135 as advertized and steel adapters.You could get 220 gr,245 gr or 270 gr.That 220 gr might do it on the 2016.

How long are your 2016's and what is your draw length?

[NO SIGHTS]

I measured the 2016's last night they are 31-1/2"
Draw length is  28"

[JimB]

OK,Stu's calculator says 135 gr point at that length.Cut to 29",he says 205 gr point.Arrow weight app. 12 GPP.You just have to check some weights for yourself but that would give you a starting point.It does make sense to use the ones you have.

If your 2117 were 31.5",Stu says 220 gr point.If they were 29",over 300 gr point.

[NO SIGHTS]

this Stu's calculator you speak of sounds of interest to me. Where can i locate such knowledge
thanks for helping me out.
shawn

[JimB]

http://heilakka.com/stumiller/

You have to download it.Read the instructions and make sure you put in all correct information.Many things affect tune.Some say the calculator gets them very close,others say it doesn't.I think it can get you close and you can tune from there.

The cool thing is,you can change numbers like arrow length and see instantly how much that affects things.

[The Whittler]

1916 or 1816.