To cut or not to cut...

[K. Mogensen]

Bought some Easton GG's for my 55@28 (my draw and actual draw weight of bow, yes, I've measured both) Savannah. I ended up going with the 400's or 2117's. I ordered them full length thinking I'd cut them down a half inch at a time until I got good flight. Or maybe even bareshaft. Stu's calc. says that 29.5" is what would work best. I'm using 200 gr. points.

Well, got em today, threw an insert into a full length shaft just to see and bada-bing, they seem to fly great. To my eye, I cannot see any wobble. Should I still try cutting one down some to see if I could somehow get better flight?

Should I still try bareshafting?

Thanks!

i think bare shaft one.

[snag]

If you have some that are bare shafts I would use them to tune these. Sometimes fletched arrows mask "less than" perfect arrow spine and length.

[K. Mogensen]

Okay. I have a whole dozen so stripping one down shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks for the quick replies!

[cacciatore]

You bet it is a main step in fine tuning!

[K. Mogensen]

Good thing I did. Bareshafting a bit weak and my nock point is definitely high.

[Night Wing]

If you haven't played with the brace height, you should. Most people set their brace height and never change it. Brace height plays an important aspect in tuning an arrow the same along with cutting an arrow's length down and point weight.

[Zradix]

Paper test em.

[K. Mogensen]

I have messed with the brace a bit but they're still just a touch weak at my highest brace. I'm taking a quarter inch off and that oughta do the trick I think. They're just a bit nock right.

Another brain squeezer for ya guys.

I've always heard that shooting a bow tillered for split three under, you need a high nock point. Seems that what's workin for me right now is 5/16's. Isn't that a bit low?

[B/W lvr]

Nock right would be stiff not weak. Make sure you are holding the  bow exactly vertical when bare shafting or you'll not get accurate readings. Frank

[ron w]

Raise your nocking point a bit at a time and see where the sweet spot is.

[K. Mogensen]

Hey, thanks for reminding me Frank! I was canting my bow just a little bit (habit). I was backwards as well, nock right stiff, nock left weak.

Anyway, got em figgered out from here. Thanks folks!

[Night Wing]

Originally posted by K. Mogensen:
Another brain squeezer for ya guys.

I've always heard that shooting a bow tillered for split three under, you need a high nock point. Seems that what's workin for me right now is 5/16's. Isn't that a bit low?

I don't shoot three under. Both of my bows are tillered for split finger. With that said, I shoot split finger; one over, two under and my nock set height is 5/8".

[gto_guy]

Nock right or your bare shaft was hitting to the right of your fletched arrows.OL`s method says not to worry about the angle of a bareshaft as long as it`s grouping with the fletched arrows

[K. Mogensen]

Bareshaft was hitting with fletched shafts, just a bit nock right. I decided not to mess with them.

I still need to look at my Nock Point too. Night Wing, I know something isn't right with the 5/16's. I'll play with it tomorrow...