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Anyone experiment with .92 cent arrows for 50-55# bows?

Started by South MS Bowhunter, June 06, 2011, 08:50:00 AM

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South MS Bowhunter

Want to make the .92 cent arrows for general purpose shooting and target practise, but I have a 29.5" draw and shoot a 55# bow.  Has anyone found a way to make the .92 cent arrows for that weight range and stay within 9-10 GPP?
Everything I have and have become is due to the Lord and his great mercy.

Mike Vines

Take your spine tester with you to the hobby store, and find you some shafts.
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U.S. ARMY Military Police

Michigan Longbow Association Life Member/Past President

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Mike Vines

Go to the How-to section of the website, and there is a build along done for .92 cents. I believe that the poundage you are looking for is what Rob shoots, and he is the one who did the tutorial.
Professional Bowhunters Society Regular Member

U.S. ARMY Military Police

Michigan Longbow Association Life Member/Past President

straitera

Bought ash 11/32" (?) dowels at the hardware store very cheap. (2 doz-$12.00) These spined stronger than I imagined but not enough for my heavier LB's. Fletched up some dozens & sent them to friends who claim they shoot great around 50#-55#. BTW, saw plenty of warps & bends on at least 25%. Straighten w/little effort.
Buddy Bell

Trad is 60% mental & about 40% mental.

South MS Bowhunter

Mike is right about what i'm referring to but it was presented by Mike MeCredy of Maddog bows and his was for bows up to 45-50 spine. I was wondering if anyone made any modification to his how to get the higher spine but at a loner draw lenght? I draw 29.5 to BOP.  Here the original link
 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000116  
I know Rob was expermenting with adding wt to the tail for heavier spine, not sure how it worked out.  I did a search for a follow up post but didn't find one.
Everything I have and have become is due to the Lord and his great mercy.

Rob DiStefano

the 92 cent birchers work just fine for me, up to 55# and 29" long.   :thumbsup:   not the most accurate shafts/arrows, but good for shot roving shots and not having to worry about busting or losing 'em.  i fletch them with left-over pieces of full length feathers and for some i use spent 38 cases for blunt points and internally foot them with 40-60 grains of nail.
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

South MS Bowhunter

Rob, do you think i could get them to work out at a 30.5 BOP lenght and 55# longbow?  What was the finished weight of yours?  And did you put the wt in the nock end to increase spine?
Everything I have and have become is due to the Lord and his great mercy.

Mike Vines

For less than a buck, you can't go wrong trying.  Let us know how it works.
Professional Bowhunters Society Regular Member

U.S. ARMY Military Police

Michigan Longbow Association Life Member/Past President

tecum-tha

Cheap arrows for practice is not the way to become a better shot.I don't really see a lot of rocky terrain in MS that would lead to excess breaking.
If you break or miss too often, you're out of your comfortable shooting range. If you want to extend your comfortable shooting range, you should train for that on a big target first. Then refinement on a 3D.
I broke 3 custom cedar arrows behind the point last year. All are repaired with an arrow-fix footing and are as good as new. You don't go out to the gun range to sight your rifle in with ammunition that has inconsistant powder loads in it. Why do it with your bow?

Mike Vines

Because premium wood arrows aren't cheap, like you stated.  Alot of us just flat out like to watch the arrow fly,  and if breaking a few won't hurt the pocket book then have it and make up some cheapies to have fun with.

I know at the range I shoot .38 instead of .357 because they are cheaper.

Either way I'm out having fun at very little expense.
Professional Bowhunters Society Regular Member

U.S. ARMY Military Police

Michigan Longbow Association Life Member/Past President

Friends call me Pac

I sure don't think the .92 arrow isn't accurate enough. They certainly perform as good if not better than I am capable of shooting them.  These were at 20 & 25 yards from 3 different bows ranging from 40-47 pounds at my draw.







And even at 50 yards they do just fine

USAF Retired '85-'05

An old hand me down recurve sparked the fire, Trad Gang fanned the flames.  There is no stopping now.  Burn baby burn!

South MS Bowhunter

Roland,

Hey good input and you are correct as for rocky terrain here in south MS, but as Mike and Duane stated Cost and Fun factor is high on my list.  I just got back from the Howard Hill Classic and it was my first 3D event ever and I had a ball, but I also lost and or damaged some Carbon arrows at around $10 apiece time you round up feathers, shaft , points, inserts etc...This tends to take the fun factor out of it for me.  Now before I'm accused of being too cheap for this sport I'm not I have and will spend the money to enjoy what I like to do, but Traditional Archery is a lot about the "do it yourselfer" and if I can get a good arrow from a little effort and still get the accuracy I'm currently capable of I say go for it.  It seems to work for a lot of the fellow here, Duane that some good shooting at 50 yards!
Everything I have and have become is due to the Lord and his great mercy.

huey

I'm with Rob on this one, birch dowels sanded to what spine I am looking for. I have shot 75# spine weight out of a 55# wheel bow in a stump with no damage to the shaft. The birch dowels need constant straighting for hard use. If you get them straight they are accurate. No less than any straight arrow.

Rob DiStefano

with a 125 grain point they typically weigh a bit over 500 grains.  i slather on some wipe on polyu to help keep them from warping too bad, and fletch up with left over full length feather ends (i have a big box of 'em).  the fletches are typically about 3.5" long and i just cut them to a kinda triangular shape with a pair of big scissors.  one straight cut per fletch.  i also set the fletches much further from the nock, 'cause the long feather ends need some room. they're fun arrows, for sure.

dunno if they'd work for a 31-32" arrow @ 55#    "[dntthnk]"  



IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

Mike Mecredy

If you use a shaft tamer on those to compress the grain a bit you can get them to spine higher. Wieght isn't an issue, with the right point you can get them to weigh in over 600 gr no problem. I didn't feel like buying a $40 shaft tamer so I made one from a piece of elk antler that works well to bone (burnish) the shafts.
TGMM Family of the bow
USAF, Retired
A.C.B.C.S.

South MS Bowhunter

Mike when you "burnish" the shaft is that just rubbing another smooth object against the shaft to cause fiction and in essence temper it?  When do you know how much is good?
Everything I have and have become is due to the Lord and his great mercy.

Rob DiStefano

"burnishing" is one way to straighten a woodie, applying heat and hand pressure is another.  i use both.  my burnishing tool is a steel guitar slide ...





IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

Shakes.602

I use Wally Worlds "Best" Ramin Dowels to make My Arrows!  Sometimes to go through the Whole Bin to find semi-straight dowels, but My Time is Cheap!
Have purchased Hardwood Dowels at the Lumber Yard, but they All seem to shoot pretty much the same. I use 5/16 for my 45-50# LongBows.
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