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wood arrow help

Started by 3Feathers, February 09, 2011, 07:30:00 PM

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3Feathers

I'm new to making woodies.  I'm staining the shafts, then giving them 3 separate coats of danish oil, rubbed on. Is that enought to seal them?  Also putting on 3 coats of water-based poly. Will the danish oil seal them enough without the poly? The shafts are ash.
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michaelschwister

have tried about everything, but have settled on 3 coats of helmsman spar urathane gloss wiped on with a rag. The danish oil should work fine, as long as you don't expose them to significant rain.
"The best thing to give to your enemy is forgiveness; to a friend, your heart; to your child, a good example; to a father, deference; to your mother, conduct that will make her proud of you; to yourself, respect" - Benjamin Franklin

Orion

You don't need the danish oil and the poly.  I've messed with danish oil a lot.  Usually, though, I soak the shafts for days at a time and use a particular color of danish to get the shaft color I want.  Oil does not penetrate as well when it is rubbed over a previously applied stain, which tends to clog the wood pours. Three coats of Danish oil over a stain may be ok for damp conditions, but I don't think it will hold out rain. Three coats of poly, on the other hand, because it is a surface coating rather than a penetrating coating, will hold out rain, water, etc, unless the finish is somehow compromised--split, chipped, etc.

doctari

You want to make sure you have all your shafts straighten before sealing them. I use polyurethane on mine, after staining and cresting them. IMO Ash makes an awesome hunting arrow. Warning making your own arrows can become addictive and not cheap.   :thumbsup:
"So long as the new moon returns in heavan a bent, beautiful bow, so long will the fascination of archery keep hold the hearts of men."   Maurice Thompson The Witchery of Archery

Rob DiStefano

danish oil, tung oil, linspeed oil - all these kinda clear coat finishes take time, and some will take *forever* to dry/cure.  save time and money, use a quick/easy/durable clear coat like min-wax gloss wipe-on, or birchwood-casey tru-oil.
IAM ~ The only government I trust is my .45-70 & my Ol' Brown Bess

mississippidave

+1 on helmsman spar urathane

wolfhunter4life

Anyone here used the 3 Rivers Greybark one step seal and stain? I'm a novice at building arrows and want to start. Nothing fancy, just a good straight hunting arrow. thanks
Northern Mist to the core. Archery is meant to be simple. A stick, a string, a shaft and meat on the table.

MOLON LABE.

lpcjon2

Wolfhunter4life,

A small can of stain will last you a while, and as Rob said Minwax wipe on poly is an easy way to get a great protective finish. At least three coats of poly.
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difference in the world, but the Marines don't have that problem.
—President Ronald Reagan

Basil_K

i have never tried this before on an arrow but what about a CA glue finish? has anyone tried this?

ron w

I use spray can lacquer from the hardware store. 3 coats and your good to go. Lightly steel wool after the first and second coat. Dries really quick!!
In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities. In the expert's there are few...So the most difficult thing is always to keep your beginner's mind...This is also the real secret of the arts: always be a beginner.  Shunryu Suzuki

wolfhunter4life

Thanks for the info fellas! Will be going to menards for the next batch of arrows. No more 3 rivers pre finished shafting. It doesn't come very straight and giving me fits with my Ace Roller. It's cracking the lacquer. Can I just wipe on some Minwax poly over the cracked and exposed parts of the shaft after I get them straight?
Northern Mist to the core. Archery is meant to be simple. A stick, a string, a shaft and meat on the table.

MOLON LABE.

wolfhunter4life

How long should I wait between coats?
Northern Mist to the core. Archery is meant to be simple. A stick, a string, a shaft and meat on the table.

MOLON LABE.


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