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this arrow set up sound like a good start?

Started by sawtoothscream, January 04, 2011, 01:49:00 AM

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sawtoothscream

bow 66" hydrid 50# AT 28"  and my draw is 26.5" so roughly 45# at my length.  cut 3/16 with 14 strand fast flight

using that stu miller spine chart i got this set up
GT 1535 trad 28"  

100gr brass insert, 125gr head with 3x5" feathers

about 459 gr 22.3 FOC

any thoughts on this? good enough weight for deer? i was just playing around with the calc and thought this sounded like a good starting point but im pretty new to this. for all i know this might be the dumbest setup out there for my bow

thanks
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

**DONOTDELETE**

Sounds great to Me... The only real way to tell is to get the arrows made Up and go shoot..

Bowmania

To some of us GT 1535 means nothing.  Put in the deflection or spine of the arrow and everyone can give you a suggestion.

If you went with Stu you'll be OK.

Bowmania
I'm not putting up with this guys shit and dogging me.

The Whittler

If G T 3555=500 spine, then I would make a guess and say the 1535=600 spine?

Cocklebur


sawtoothscream

ya sorry its a gold tip traditional 1535  600spine

i want a arrow that will be good enough for deer but not to heavy that its going to drop like crazy.  thinking around 450-500gr,

if im using that spine chart right it should be very close to what i need
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

SS Snuffer

Chuck
Kodiak Mag 52" 41 lb.
Kota Kill-Um 60" 42 lb.
Kanati 58" 38 lb.
Black Hunter Longbow 60" 40 lb.

No Guts - No Story

SEMO_HUNTER

FWIW- I shoot a similar set up, draw length around an actual 27" similar poundage and I found that a .500 spine 510gr. arrow shoots really well from my bow. I'm actually going to try some aluminum 2117's just out of curiousity to see how they shoot. I believe the actual spine for a 2117 is .400 but I have an assortment of heavier tips to try so I can actually tune the arrow.

That's what I would suggest is tuning with the proper wt. point. Keep trying different weight points until you find the one that shoots the best, and I would also recommend that you don't cut your arrows all the way down until you get them tuned. Once you cut some off, you can't put it back on. If you work down in 1/4" or 1/2" increments a little at a time you may find that a 29" shoots better or shoots just fine and no need to cut them all the way down to a 28" ??

These aluminums that I'm going to try are a full 31" and I'm not cutting any of them off until I see if it's completely necessary.
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Killdeer

I am shooting those specs, and use a GT 3555 cut to 28", with 175 grains on the nose. I just weighed one, and it was 476.5 grains. That is a hair over ten grains per pound, and should do just fine on deer.
If I could just get close to one!   :banghead:  
Killdeer
Long, long afterward, in an oak I found the arrow, still unbroke;
And the song, from beginning to end, I found again in the heart of a friend.

~Longfellow

TGMM Family Of The Bow

sawtoothscream

i dont have a arrow saw so cutting them down in steps would get pricy for me. going to pick one up one of these days.

figured if i go with this and its still over spined i still have many tip weight i can try to make it weaker and if its to weak of a spine i still can move to a lighter insert and tips to make it work out.
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"

sawtoothscream

ill start at 29" with the the same weght i mentioned above and have a few cut to 28"  that way i can try both out and if the 29" flys better i only have 2 or 3 28" and if the 28 is better i can just cut the rest down.  sounds like that might be the best way to go about this
- Hunterbow 58"  47# @26"
-bear kodiak 60"  45# at 28"


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