Adding weight to wood?

3Feathers · December 31, 2010, 05:34:00 PM

Any ideas how to add weight to cedar arrows???

Bowspirit · December 31, 2010, 05:37:00 PM

My 75/80 spine cedars are 31 inches long and weight 600 grains with a 160-grain point. Not bad for weight. But there are plenty of ways. Heavier points and woody weights, internal footing jig,soaking in Watco Danish Oil. All good ways...

mnbearbaiter · December 31, 2010, 05:37:00 PM

Soak them in Watco Danish Oil for a few days, you will be amazed at what they will gain in weight! I do this with all my shafts, just be sure to top off each night as they will soak up some and drop the level of the stain! You wanna keep 'em submerged totally, and dry 'em for the same amout of days that you soak them!

Rob DiStefano · December 31, 2010, 05:50:00 PM

nail footing works great and adds at least 60 grains where it counts most, up front. 3rivers sells the nail footing jig,

steadman · December 31, 2010, 05:51:00 PM

Footing jig here as well. My cedars weigh in at 680 grains 31" long.

Andy Cooper · December 31, 2010, 05:56:00 PM

Are there any lead products that would fit inside the hole drilled using the footing jig? I haven't tried mine, yet.

Green · December 31, 2010, 05:58:00 PM

Woodie weights....75 to over 200 grains on the front of your arrow.

Fletcher · December 31, 2010, 07:04:00 PM

Trade the cedar in for some fir.

WESTBROOK · December 31, 2010, 07:04:00 PM

I gotta think that nail footing has to strengthen the shaft as well.

Eric

Fletcher · December 31, 2010, 11:32:00 PM

Andy, I've been using 1/8" lead wire. It weighs 35 gr/in. A 2" hole is pretty easy to drill and 3" is about my practical limit. I use a different method to drill the hole, but the result is the same. If you want to try some, let me know.

Rob DiStefano · January 01, 2011, 05:53:00 AM

btw, you can substitute bamboo skewer for the nail and just stiffen up the front end behind the point without adding weight, where strength is needed to foil breaks.

Rob DiStefano · January 01, 2011, 05:57:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by Fletcher:
Trade the cedar in for some fir.

yes indeed! surewoods from braveheart are the cat's meow of woodies!

magnus · January 01, 2011, 08:23:00 AM

What Rob said. Can't beat a surewood! IMO. Those feathers look bigger than your usual Rob.

Keeping the Faith!
Magnus

Rik · January 01, 2011, 11:21:00 AM

A good 190 Ribtek will also add some weight. Cut's a rather large hole too.

INCOMING!

jcar315 · January 01, 2011, 11:59:00 AM

Great timing on this as I was just wondering how others added weight to wood shafts.

To those who have done the internal footing how does the weight affect the spine of the arrows? Do you need to move up in spine if you plan to internally foot? If so how much upwards?

Thanks!

Rob DiStefano · January 01, 2011, 12:06:00 PM

woodies can be more temperamental with regards to spine, particularly with added up front weight. testing is the only way to know for sure.

my 55-60 surewoods are fine with 200 in the nose. just finishing up a 6 pack of 65-70 surewoods w/260 front ends, gotta see ...

Mike Vines · January 01, 2011, 12:36:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Fletcher:
Trade the cedar in for some fir.

I'm going to try that coupled with the nail in the end jig to see what happens with my fir shafts. I have some thoughts and plans for where this will be really useful.

magnus · January 01, 2011, 12:40:00 PM

Grapes. Can you say bison?

Keeping the Faith!
Magnus

jcar315 · January 01, 2011, 01:35:00 PM

Looks like I will jump in and do some experimenting. Thanks

Fletcher · January 01, 2011, 01:36:00 PM

I found with the internal weight that I needed roughly 1 lb spine for each 10 gr of added weight. It seems that the further forward the weight is the more spine is needed. With points, it is more like 1 lb for 7-8 gr of point weight.

If you want to try some of the lead wire, let me know. It is heavier than the steel, very easy to work with and pretty cheap at $1/ft.