Aluminum arrows

[K. Mogensen]

I was starting to think of trying some of these or carbons along with my cane arrows this year. I have some questions though.

First off, are there any other manufacturers other than Easton? Just wondering as Easton only has about 5 types to choose from. Of Easton's, which do you personally prefer? Just curious.

Second, how close will Stu Millers calculator get me to a good flying arrow? It says that it can get you to where you just need to adjust brace height but I'm skeptical.

Is there a difference between XX75 and XX78? One better/worse?

Do tube cutters really work? Easton says to use a high speed arrow saw but I here of people using tube cutters. I read you can crush the wall doing that and it spooks me.

Nother thing to is how wide are the shaft's generally? 5/16, 11/32? I read that on some carbons, you can't use helical because they are too thin, and that'w what's making me lean towards aluminum.

That's it for now, thanks!

[JimB]

I don't have all your answers but many carbons are 5/16" and there is no problem doing helical on them.

On aluminums the first 2 digits of the size is the outside diameter in 64ths of an inch.The last two digits is the tubing wall thickness in thousands.Example: 2018.20 means 20/64ths diam or 5/16".18 means .018 wall thickness.the 2216 etc are 22/64" diam or 11/32".

[Earl E. Nov...mber]

I've been real happy with my Easton arrow selections for my bows for some time, so I really don't need to calculate what will work.
However I did run the numbers and he agrees with me, so I am going to say his calculator does a good job.
You can use a tubing cutter but be careful go slow and deburr the cut with a chamfer deburr tool from your  reloading bench, or carefully file the end square with a file.

[acadian archer]

I was going to try carbons but couldn't get a chart to get proper spine for 125 grain tips 30 inch arrow out of a 44#Chek mate so I went back to an 1916XX75. great shaft . I use a 2degree offset on my small shaft 1916s and I have used them for years. they fly like darts using 4 inch feathers.

I tried the tube cutter and wasn't satisfied. if you're going to make lots of arrows get a saw, if not then just have them cut to length when you buy them.

[M60gunner]

I still like my aluminum arrows and am heavly vested in 2114's and 2020's. I use the 2114's out of my 55lb. bows. I found by bareshafting that a 145 grain head flys the best. It gives you almost a 500 grain shaft. The platinum shafts are about the last good shafts in the Easton line that offers a selection at a reasonable price.There is a camo shaft also. They are xx75 and straighter then many carbons twice their price. The xx78 is a harder alloy but I see mostly the camo shafts offered. They are the straightest of all. The x7 shafts are thin walled and mostly for target.
If you want a heavier shaft try the Legacy shafts they make. I use the 2020's out of my heavy longbow and 60 lb. recurve. They weight in around 560 grains with my 145 grain heads. Fly great out to 35 yards then drop like a rock.

[Longbowz]

Though I mostly use carbons now I still have a soft spot for the XX78 Super Slam's.  They're tough, straight and seem a little more forgiving then carbon overall.

Mostly I have used the 22/64th diameter, never been sold on the heavier is better idea for arrow shafts for all purposes. For most of my bows 2216 works fine for me.

[Night Wing]

I have 3 bows. They are all light weight in poundage. I also have a long 30" draw so I shoot 32" (BOP) aluminum arrows. Two of my bows, the 41# longbow (dacron bowstring) and the 37# recurve (Dyna97 bowstring) shoot XX78 2212 X7 Eclipse arrows with a 180 grain tip weight. These arrows weigh 524 grains. My 42# recurve (Dyna97 bowstring) shoots XX75 2213 Camo Hunter arrows with 180 grain tip weight. These arrows weigh 555 grains. All of these arrows are basically heavy arrows for the light poundages, but they're also very flat shooting out to 20 yards. My broadhead of choice is a STOS 145 grain 2 blade glue on glued to a 36 grain screw in Zwickey long broadhead adapter.

[Rob DiStefano]

Originally posted by K. Mogensen:
I was starting to think of trying some of these or carbons along with my cane arrows this year. I have some questions though.

interesting, i'm going the reverse of you - trying out cane instead of carbon.

First off, are there any other manufacturers other than Easton? Just wondering as Easton only has about 5 types to choose from. Of Easton's, which do you personally prefer? Just curious.

short answer, NO.

Second, how close will Stu Millers calculator get me to a good flying arrow? It says that it can get you to where you just need to adjust brace height but I'm skeptical.

dunno a thing about the sm calculator.  in the long run, for an aluminum arrow, the OLD easton charts are pretty darn much on the money.  no matter what shaft material or final arrow dimensions, only your testing will prove its worth to you.

Is there a difference between XX75 and XX78? One better/worse?

there is a strength difference 'tween the two but not as much as one would think.  all aluminum arrows are subject to denting and bending.

Do tube cutters really work? Easton says to use a high speed arrow saw but I here of people using tube cutters. I read you can crush the wall doing that and it spooks me.

i've been using a mini tube cutter on perhaps thousands of aluminum arrows since the early 60's with nary a problem.

Nother thing to is how wide are the shaft's generally? 5/16, 11/32? I read that on some carbons, you can't use helical because they are too thin, and that'w what's making me lean towards aluminum.

the width of an aluminum arrow is clearly spelled out in its size designation: a 2016 is 20/64" in diameter (5/16") with a wall thickness of .016"

That's it for now, thanks!

there are LOTS of folks who prefer aluminum arrows because they just easy to get to tune and they're found everywhere.  however, imho, carbons are just more durable with no denting or bending.  yeah, carbons can break and shatter, but they won't do that on hits that would bend or dent an aluminum arrow.  something to ponder.

....

[Night Wing]

I disagree. Since I've been bowhunting for the last 45 years, the Easton aluminum arrow chart now being produced "is no where near the money". At my 30" draw length and the arrow length I shoot, 32" (BOP)) with the point weight Easton recommends, none of their spine selections work for me because those selections are way too stiff.

[cedar]

I second what Night Wing says. I always go two groups weaker than what the chart shows.  I use 31" arrows for my 30" draw.

[Rob DiStefano]

night wing, john49 - you guys are right on the money!                                                      

i've been outta the loop on eastons for 20 years or more and the OLD Easton Chart was what i was referring to, definitely not the newer one.

The charts below are from the Anderson Archery catalog from about 1973 ...

   

 

[Night Wing]

Rob,

The old Easton chart of the 60's was spot on, but whoever at Easton is now responsible for the newer shaft chart, doesn't know what he/she is doing.

I've also updated my signature to show the length and arrow shaft I use with my 180 point tip weight.

On a side note, the reason I shoot a 32" long arrow for my 30" draw length is because when I grip and draw my bow, the knuckle on my left index finger comes darn close to the back end of the broadhead at full draw if the arrow is cut 31" long. I've only got about 1/2" clearance to my knuckle. Something to think about if one shoots a 3 or 4 blade broadhead and only goes by the distance to the front of the shelf.

[maxwell]

I like Alum.  I have no problems with arrow flight, no problem with keeping them straight and they are easy to fletch any way you want.  The cutter tool works great.  XX78 are a little straighter and stronger.

[cbCrow]

I ahve shot aluminum since '78 and never had any problems with them. When I went traditional in '83 it only followed that I stick with the metal tubes. My motto is "if it ain't broke don't fix it" I shoot XX75 Camo's and they work fine.

[Brook Trout]

Rob, thanks for posting the old Easton charts.  Definitely much better than the new Easton charts.  These questions about arrow spine seem to get asked alot.  This is just a suggestion, but maybe you could place this spine chart or a similar one up top like you guys did for the shot placement diagrams for easy reference.

[K. Mogensen]

Wow, thanks for all the responses. I haven't read all the posts yet but I think my decision on aluminum has been made. The second easton chart down, the X7 one is telling me what Stu's Calculator is. I think I'll want just a tad stiff cause I'll be wearing 200-270 gr. up front with adapter.

Quick question, where can a person get your normal, non brass, adapter? I looked at 3 rivers and all they have is HIT and brass inserst. I just want a standard one. Think I heard somewhere 30 gr.?

I know that carbons are stronger and what not, but this batch will only be for hunting and target practice for hunting. I'll make another of some cheap carbons or cheap alums for stumping. I may like the cane better too! We'll see though. Alum. has it's issues, but so does carbon.

Thanks, you guys helped a lot!

[K. Mogensen]

TTT

[Bill Tell]

I shoot the XX78 and love them.  They seem to stray straighter and retain their spine longer then anything else I have shot.

[poison arrow]

I have a load of xx75s that I use for heavier bows. They hold up surprisingly well.

[Spectre]

I like some Autumn Orange shafts, 1916. I use a tubing cutter exclusively(too po fo saws), and really like them, just, as said before, go slow then I just deburr with the point of a pocketknife. Works great.

(edit to say I like 1916 now, I'm not sure about the availability of that size in AO)