Arrow tuning

[weedwacker]

I am thinking about switching to GrizzlyStiks so I bought a test pack.  Eliminated the stiffest arrow, but can't decide between the next two.  I have never paper tuned my recurve before.  I have been shooting alums from easton and just assumed the chart was right.  Need some advice, how important is paper tuning with the recurve? How should I decide?

[mrpenguin]

After trying every method of tuning, I would recommend a few basic tests.  Paper tuning will help you determine correct spine, so, it is pretty important.  Ultimately, the best thing to do is take an arrow that bare shafts pretty well (it is hard to get a perfect bare shaft test), then fletch it up, attach a broadhead, make sure there is a safe stop if the arrow flight is bad, and shot it from 20 yds.  Watch the flight.  It should be a smooth arch.  If it wiggles in any way, the arrow is not tuned well.  If it deviates in flight in any way, it is not tuned properly.  Once the 20 yd test passes, then step back to 30 yds.  Watch the arrow fly.  If the flight is smooth, you're good to go.  Fletch up another 2 arrows and see how they group.  If you have good flight and an acceptable group, you're in business.

Best of luck!

[GMMAT]

I never paper tuned a compound....and I don't suppose I ever will my recurve.  I don't see the point.  Personal opinion.

I bare shaft until I get a little nock high and a little weak reading.  Fletching seems to correct both to give optimal flight.

It helps to have someone in your area well-versed to aid you.  I've been extremely fortunate in that regard.  My buddy here has straightened out my learning curve, immensely.

When bare shafting, start with a long arrow.  You sure can't add length!  

My procedure has been to pick the head weight I wanna use....and build my arrows backwards, from there.

Good luck.