arrow spine Easton chart

sweet old bill · June 17, 2009, 05:42:00 AM

I have been using on 3 different bow that are 28 inch draw in the following weight range of 47 lb, 49 lb and 50 lb limbs. THe arrow that have worked in the past are all cut to 29 1/2 inch, with 3 5.5. bananna fletch feathers. the carbons all got the extra brass 50 gr inserts, and all arrows have 125 gr field points / BH's.

The spine I have been using were the easton or bemen 500 spine carbon shaft and xx75 1916 alum.
I got a new cart from easton and they now say I should be using 400 carbon and I think it was 2018 in the alum size.

Now what are you finding that shoots the best out of your bow in the peak draw weights that I referenced...

do you find the easton / bemen chart are way off base ? or was I just shooting underspined arrows and was just lucky they seemed to fly right for me....

Bill

saumensch · June 17, 2009, 05:44:00 AM

I cant tell you the right thing, but for me the Easton Chart set the arrow to stiff, too.
So perhaps youre just right!

vermonster13 · June 17, 2009, 07:05:00 AM

You're set-up is fine. You may want to play with 2016s some if you want to shoot a heavier tip, but otherwise don't change what works.

KVTA TANK · June 17, 2009, 08:32:00 AM

Those charts are a refrance to go by . You still need to fine tune What works in one makers bow wont shoot well in another makers bow.

Big Ed · June 17, 2009, 09:08:00 AM

I usally find that by backing up one block than what is called for will put you "close".

BowZen · June 17, 2009, 09:28:00 AM

Bill,

I shoot similar weights and the 1916 work well. I have 125 grain tip, cut to 28.5" with 3 5" shield cut feathers.

I also like the Goldtip 3555 cut and fletched the same way, with a 100 grain tip and 50 grain brass insert.

karim

Night Wing · June 17, 2009, 11:40:00 AM

This is the best link I've found for tuning a bow with aluminum arrows without the use of a chart. With a chart, you can fudge just a little.

http://www.shootingthestickbow.com/rich_text_3.html

As an example, I shoot a Blacktail recurve bow cut 3/16" past center. My nocking point is 1/2" above the shelf. I shoot with a tab. My bow is 42# @ 30". I shoot 32" long arrows (before point is attached). I fletch with three, 5" right wing parabolic feathers with an eleven degree right twist. By using the link above, with a 125 grain point weight, I would be shooting a 2016 aluminum arrow, but since I like a 160 grain point (broadhead) weight (130 STOS plus a Zwickey 36 grain long broadhead adapter), I fudge one spine up and my bow loves a heavy 2018 and it's total finished arrow weight is around 592 grains. If I decide to go up to 200-225 grains in point weight (190 Tusker Concorde or 190 grain Grizzly El Grande plus a 36 grain Zwickey long broadhead adpater), by using the link above and fudging up again by one spine, my bow should like a lighter 2213 and it's total finished arrow weight will be very close to the total finished arrow weight of the 2018 with it's 160 grain point weight so my trajectory should be the same. The link above will save you from aggravation when using the Easton chart for choosing aluminum arrows.

George D. Stout · June 17, 2009, 05:10:00 PM

Easton charts suggest arrows that are too stiff for most traditional bows. They are normally setup up for reference to bows that are cut past center. A 400 would be much too stiff unless you weighed the end considerably.

I shoot a fifty pound recurve, 28" arrow, about 27 1/2" draw, and the 2016, with a 125 to 135 grain point works fine for me. A 2016 is a .531 deflection, much more limber than a .400. Stick with what works and only use those charts as a place to begin.