Self Bow Q's...

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Get an old rag and soak it in Veggy-oil, then lay it on the area your about to heat & then heat that area up.

Find that spot that the bend is in ( lets say the tip ). Clamp the tip with the bend, place the rag a few inches above it. Now start to heat the area up and You'll be able to push out the bend. tie a piece of string or clamp to hold the bow straight as it cools over nite... Your done, bow straight.

[Art B]

One thing to remember Shawn, Osage is one of the easiest woods to heat straighten. For a modest bend as shown in your first pic, oil is not needed in my opinion. Heat your limb (mostly on the belly and sides) until it stays hot to the touch for 10-15 seconds (without scorching the wood). Bend "past" what you consider straight and then bring back to straight. This way you don't have to clamp in place until cooled for the straightening process to hold.

When you heat your wood you are in fact raising it's compression/tension properities and therefore it's always wise to apply the same amount of heat to the other limb as well. This is especially important for tillered (finished) bows.-ART B

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Art, I read about the oil heat on Paleo. I didn't know osage was so easy to dry heat. I'm still learning....

[George Tsoukalas]

I wouldn't even worry about that small a bend. Leave handle full width and nocks 1 inch wide to adjust string tracking. I can explain more if you want. Knots should have more width. Le them swirl. Jawge

[Art B]

The oil works real well Sal. I just hate to fool with the clean-up later on. And for no more bend then Shawn's pic showed I would personally just dry heat it. -ART B

[Pluck Yew]

Big thanks everyone!..I will straighten and take pic's and try to post tonight..also want to get to a bow scale somewhere so can check poundage..feels like she's come in over budget..maybe 55-60#            

Shawn...

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Shawn, do you have a tillering tree? if so you can use a bathroom scale to help weigh the draw.. I'm dirt poor and that is what I use. Works for me for now...

[Pluck Yew]

Really? just put tree on scale and watch as you pull to draw length?...who da thunk it?    

Shawn...

[Pluck Yew]

Sorry will have to wait for my son to get home to post pic's...    Been shooting her though and is a fun bow to shoot..didn't try your "bathroom scale" test sal...too lazy today..But I am now thinking poundage to be 48-52..will see...

     

Shawn..

[**DONOTDELETE**]

here is my hand tools.


here you can see the bow, Bow Tree & scale.

[Pluck Yew]

OK,,here I go with pic's...        Hope I did that right..        

Shawn...

[Pluck Yew]

Hey Sal, checked bow with scale and were looking at 58-59# at 26" draw...even though I am gravitationally (boy thats a big word)challenged...I think I am close...Hooyaaa!!

Shawn...


             

[**DONOTDELETE**]

for now that scale will help keep you from blowing up bows in your hand... Glade it worked for you... Always best to have some kind of scale as you work on bows till you can do them without one...

[George Tsoukalas]

From the bow in the braced position looks like you can get that near handle wood bending a bit better. Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

Pictures at partial draw would be good. Don't know if I would bring it to full draw as is. Unless left really long whip tillered bow stack incredibly as full draw. Males it harder to pull back. Jawge

[Pluck Yew]

Oh-Oh, And I thought I was done... ..hows that look?

Shawn...

[**DONOTDELETE**]

left limb looks to have a hinge about half way

[**DONOTDELETE**]

the red areas look like hinges, I would also remove little more in the green areas

[Pluck Yew]

Thanks Sal, Do you mean just take a little more off only in the green area right?

Shawn...

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Yes, only in the green