Natural Barred and Woody pics?

[JEFF B]

here are some i made    [/IMG]

[joebuck]

On my next arrows, i will again crest over wipe on stain and sealer but I will lay a clear coat base before and under the cresting to achieve tighter and crisper cresting lines.....I was bummed out to learn they have changed the auto tester bottles up.....i love the ole fingernail polish style bottles......

[flint kemper]

Joey, I tried posting pictures from photobucket but could not get it to work. Send me your e-mail addy. Flint

[frassettor]

Great looking arrows guys!!      

[Featherbuster]

joebuck, i will be southeast of Jackson Hole, i will be out there from sept 13-23.
I was out near burkes tuesday, on the farm they call the new ground, and saw about 30 hogs out in the field headed back towards ward lake. I am waiting for my new grizzlys to come in so i can try them out on some pigs.

[flint kemper]

One more time.

[flint kemper]

Above post. Top 2 are Sweetland Arrows. Followed by Glen St. Charles arrows, one built by his daughter Suzanne. The 5th arrow I forgot who built it and the 2 bottom ones are Chet Stephensen arrows. Enjoy Flint

[flint kemper]

Some of my cresting.

[b.glass]

Absolutely beautiful arrows everyone!

[Anaconda12]

Hey guys could someone explain the process of using the Watco sealer?  Do you apply it over the cresting?  What kind of glue do you use to glue the feathers on after the shaft has been "oiled"?  Etc., is there a certain brand or product (is it called a sealer or oil).  Thanks alot for any help.

[Dustin Waters]

Can someone also explain a different way to seal arrows other than with the dip tank and gasket lacquer?  I have always used the gasket method and really have gotten away from making woodies, a buddy needs some arrows and i really dont want to fidget with the gaskets and the thick lacquer.  Are there any other methods.

[Don Stokes]

Practically any good wood finish will work with arrows. I like a penetrating sealer like Minwax polyurethane, with a top coat of something else. The Minwax penetrating sealer leaves so little residue on the surface that you can top coat with about anything. Polyurethane makes a good top coat, but it's really hard to pull out of 3D targets. A lacquer is better for that. Good fletching glues are Duco, Fletchtite, and superglue. Some work better with some finishes than others. I use superglue, the thicker kind like Loctite, more than anything else.

[Don Stokes]

PS- I use nothing but Ferrul-tite (sp?)hot melt for points.

[Jack Skinner]

Not as perty as some more utalitarian.

[joebuck]

I stain with alcohol stain ( leather stain).Then sand lightly 220 after an hour drying at most. Then I rub Watco Teak Oil ( Home Depot) ( some use Watco Danish Oil) over entire shaft. Let dry 3-4 hours then I buff with OOOO steel wool to get left over residue off. Note here..the shaft has absorbed all the sealer it will absorb..No need to recoat...Then I buy at Auto Zone testor paint pens with the brush caps. I crest with silver, black and white. After I crest I seal cresting with the "Clear Coat" color also sold as a tester at Auto Zone......then I fletch with DUCO cement ( Walmart). All of this can be bought locally  hope this helps Adaconda and Dustin

[formerbutcher]

Here are a couple i made, no cresting though...i like a plain arrow.
 

John

[elkbreath]

Jack, its the eye of the beholder.  I love this arrows.  I've got to come and see those some time.  

Nice work everyone!

[Sticks2117]

Adam Those are cool arrows I wish I had that kind of ability. You go Brother!!

[Don Stokes]

Here's a better picture of some of mine. The one on the left was from a set I made for turkey hunting- no bright colors. Stained with Minwax penetrating sealer, coated with gasket lacquer, crested with sharpie pens, cresting coated with spray-on lacquer to keep it from rubbing off. Fletching is wild turkey and wild goose. The other three are done the same way except for the stain, fletched with wild turkey.

 [/IMG]

[monkeyball]

After I have mine stained and crested I start wiping on coats of tru-oil.After every 3rd coat I lightly go over the shaft with 4/0 steel wool.
          A little trick you can do after you stain the shaft but before you crest it is to burnish the shaft.Take a brown paper bag and fold it into a square that you can work with now wrap that around the shaft and work it up and down until the friction heats up your hand.What you have done now has helped to close the cells or grain in the wood and the finish will almost have a soft sheen to it.Now you can apply your seal coats which will build up quicker because of the burnishing.I usually apply a couple sets of three until the finish is as smooth as glass.
                                      Craig