1916

[Coach Jones]

I am shooting a 38 lb Kanati with a B55 string.  My arrows are 30.5 inch 700 Dark Timbers with 200 grain tips.  Could I shoot a 1916 from this set up or will I need an 1816? My draw length is 28 inches.  I ask because I would love to get some Autumn Orange shafts but they don't come in an 1816 spine. 

[McDave]

Probably would work fine.  The only way you would know for sure would be to bare shaft tune, because a 1916 would possibly need a longer or shorter shaft to work with that setup.

Your setup seems a little too light in bow weight for hunting, and a little too heavy in arrow weight for target.  What is your objective here?

[Coach Jones]

Probably would work fine.  The only way you would know for sure would be to bare shaft tune, because a 1916 would possibly need a longer or shorter shaft to work with that setup.

Your setup seems a little too light in bow weight for hunting, and a little too heavy in arrow weight for target.  What is your objective here?

So, 481 grains is light?  That is 12.65 GPP.  Or are you saying 38 lbs is too light for hunting? This is a hunting bow.  Bare shafts are perfect and it is ready for turkey season. 

[McDave]

The arrow weight is plenty heavy enough for hunting turkeys.  The draw weight of the bow seems a little on the light side for hunting, but that could be just personal preference.

[Vesty]

You should be fine. I'm shooting a full lenghth 1916 from my 37# N.M.Shelton and that arrow in the rib cage equals dead deer
Arrow weight 550gns

[Vesty]

I should probably add that my average shot distance is right around 12yds.

[Rob DiStefano]

The goal with any hunting arrow is to have one that will straighten up and fly right (straight) ASAP upon release and be 10-12GPP (if possible), and a true c-o-c razor stuck on the shaft's nose.  With a light 38lbs holding weight you'll be limited in a number of ways - mainly, consistent accuracy at specific shooting distances; different aiming points between 5m and 20m.

I'd stick with the 700s DTs ... but I'd rethink the length and point/broadhead weight.  Maybe even work on yer shooting form a bit, too.  I use 29" 600 DTs out of a 42lb holding weight longbow w/B55 bowstring, where fletched and bare shafts fly and group to 15m quite well ... so yer modified 700s could/should be able to work well enuf.

Add a true razor sharp c-o-c broadhead and with an ethical shot taken at an ethical distance that's commensurate with the kind of critter yer drawing a bead on, you can kill a moose with 35lbs holding weight - ASSUMING you, the twangmaster pulling string and aiming the shaft, can consistently put the blade into the boiler room every time no matter who, what, where, when, or why.  Nope, not many can do that consistently accurately with a light holding weight bow.  Turk, possibly.  Deer, a wild maybe.  Moose, nope.  It's all about yer shooting abilities and the Short Distance to the target/critter.

Good luck!
   

[Coach Jones]

The goal with any hunting arrow is to have one that will straighten up and fly right (straight) ASAP upon release and be 10-12GPP (if possible), and a true c-o-c razor stuck on the shaft's nose.  With a light 38lbs holding weight you'll be limited in a number of ways - mainly, consistent accuracy at specific shooting distances; different aiming points between 5m and 20m.

I'd stick with the 700s DTs ... but I'd rethink the length and point/broadhead weight.  Maybe even work on yer shooting form a bit, too.  I use 29" 600 DTs out of a 42lb holding weight longbow w/B55 bowstring, where fletched and bare shafts fly and group to 15m quite well ... so yer modified 700s could/should be able to work well enuf.

Add a true razor sharp c-o-c broadhead and with an ethical shot taken at an ethical distance that's commensurate with the kind of critter yer drawing a bead on, you can kill a moose with 35lbs holding weight - ASSUMING you, the twangmaster pulling string and aiming the shaft, can consistently put the blade into the boiler room every time no matter who, what, where, when, or why.  Nope, not many can do that consistently accurately with a light holding weight bow.  Turk, possibly.  Deer, a wild maybe.  Moose, nope.  It's all about yer shooting abilities and the Short Distance to the target/critter.

Good luck!
 

Are you suggesting shortening the shaft and adding point weight?  Right now my arrows are just over 480 grains and bare shafts fly perfect.  My shooting is good, not new to traditional archery.  Been shooting traditional since 1992 and been bowhunting since 1984.  Just wanted to try some aluminum shafts.

[Rob DiStefano]

The goal with any hunting arrow is to have one that will straighten up and fly right (straight) ASAP upon release and be 10-12GPP (if possible), and a true c-o-c razor stuck on the shaft's nose.  With a light 38lbs holding weight you'll be limited in a number of ways - mainly, consistent accuracy at specific shooting distances; different aiming points between 5m and 20m.

I'd stick with the 700s DTs ... but I'd rethink the length and point/broadhead weight.  Maybe even work on yer shooting form a bit, too.  I use 29" 600 DTs out of a 42lb holding weight longbow w/B55 bowstring, where fletched and bare shafts fly and group to 15m quite well ... so yer modified 700s could/should be able to work well enuf.

Add a true razor sharp c-o-c broadhead and with an ethical shot taken at an ethical distance that's commensurate with the kind of critter yer drawing a bead on, you can kill a moose with 35lbs holding weight - ASSUMING you, the twangmaster pulling string and aiming the shaft, can consistently put the blade into the boiler room every time no matter who, what, where, when, or why.  Nope, not many can do that consistently accurately with a light holding weight bow.  Turk, possibly.  Deer, a wild maybe.  Moose, nope.  It's all about yer shooting abilities and the Short Distance to the target/critter.

Good luck!
 

Are you suggesting shortening the shaft and adding point weight?  Right now my arrows are just over 480 grains and bare shafts fly perfect.  My shooting is good, not new to traditional archery.  Been shooting traditional since 1992 and been bowhunting since 1984.  Just wanted to try some aluminum shafts.

Light holding weight hunting stickbows can be at somewhat of a disadvantage.  If yer holding weight is only 38lbs and yer completed arrow weight is 480 grains, then although the resulting 12.5GPP is a good killing weight it can/will limit point-on max shooting distance (as noted, you stated 12 yards).  Reducing arrow weight (both length and point) could/would allow a longer POA/POI killing distance with a lighter overall arrow, no lighter than 10GPP, more like 400 grains.  Modifying or changing form, how the bow is addressed and used, might also help.