Nock high frustration

[Jock Whisky]

I've been trying to get rid of nock high with bare shafts to no avail.

Shooting 3 fingers under
Tried nock point 1/2" as well as 5/8" without success.
Tiller is 7 1/4 on top limb and 7 1/8 on bottom.
Shooting 64 inch recurve with 36# uukha alpha ILF limbs at my 28" draw
Brace height is 8 1/2"

Suggestions gratefully appreciated.

[buckeyebowhunter]

I too always get nock high when bare shaft tuning. I never worry about it too much as long as it's not crazy high, if your arrow is sticking in the target almost vertical then I'd say it's something to do with your release/finger pressure.

Put feathers on and see what it's doing.

[Michpatriot]

Too much FOC can make nock high hard to tune out on a bare shaft??..have you done any experimentation with nock tension? (how tight they fit serving)..You could try moving one string silencer a long way so they are unequally spaced from limb tip (if you are running any) just ideas..You might try 1"  nock point  height..and work backwards..to prove you aren't getting nocks high from bouncing off shelf\rest from being too low..work the problem from way too high back down.. I only use tie on points..and screw them up or down the serving to adjust slowly..I've never had good luck with crimp on nock points..ever.

[Mike Walker]

I'm not a 3-under shooter, but can offer suggestions......

First, I'd recommend you adjust your tiller bolts to even tiller vs your 1/8" positive setting.

Next, use 2 nock points (1 above the nock and 1 below) and don't have them tight against the nock--leave a bit of wiggle room.

Last, start with a 3/4" nock height and work down.

Good luck! 

[McDave]

Mike's suggestions above are all good.  You may have to go even higher than 3/4" to find true nock high.  It is important to know whether you have true nock high or false nock high, because if you are dealing with false nock high, i.e., shelf bounce, you're not tuning the bow at all.

You didn't mention which riser you have.  Most ILF risers should be tuned at some intermediate position between max high and max low tiller bolt locations.  There are some ILF risers, like the Hoyt Satori, that have stops to prevent the tiller bolts from being set too low, and they can be tightened all the way down like limb bolts on a non ILF riser.  Most ILF risers have instructions about setting the tiller bolts, like "no lower than one complete turn up from bottomed out," or provide marks indicating max low and max high.  Those tiller bolts must be locked into position using the provided tiller bolt locking screws, which are also provided with risers like the Satori in case you want to set the tiller bolts at some intermediate position.  If the tiller bolts on your riser are tightened down further than the recommended position, it will be difficult or impossible to tune and could damage the limbs.

[Kirkll]

What type of rest, or rest material are you using? And, is it elevated? I personally like to shoot my ILF rig off the shelf, but it's slightly elevated. I used a shaped piece of rubber about 1/4" high, then covered it in Velcro.

Some guys like a springy rest, some like a flipper. Both are elevated rests and require a more vertical position when shooting, but can handle a larger spread of spine difference.

I do not spend a lot of time bare shaft tuning arrows either. Where I spend my time is carefully matching the spine on all my shafts using a spine tester. I could care less what my arrows fly like without fletching. I don't hunt with bare shafts....

[buckeyebowhunter]

The more I do this the more I think we waste a lot of time bare shafting. I think it can get you close, but the real test is an arrow tipped with a broadhead.

I've gotten perfect bareshaft flight and then awkward broadhead flight on certain setups and visa versa. There's just too many variables and too many archers with poor releases including myself to get a perfect bare shaft every time.  I would say as long as you're not getting an extreme kick right or left or up or down then you're probably a lot closer then you think. 

Another thing with bareshafting is any cant in the bow will give you some wild results down range.

Personally I like a little nock high and a little nock left.

[smokin joe]

Nock height is a very sensitive adjustment. Doing it in 1/8 inch increments is difficult because the increments are too large. Moving the nock point by 1/16 inch at a time is much better. Look at the serving wraps on your string -- move your nock point one or two wraps at a time and you will find a height that will  eliminate nock high.