Linseed/tung/danish oil for wood arrows?

[Ruttinghard]

Hey all, anyone on here ever use linseed, tung, danish, etc oil for finishing wood arrows? If so, did you like the results and what glue worked well for the fletching over it?

Thanks!

[Orion]

Quite some time ago, there was a short lived fad that involved impregnating arrow shafts under pressure with tung oil as a way to get heavier shafts.  I did it for a while.  As I remember, when they came out of the pressure tube most of the POC shafts were 100 grains or more heavier than when they went in.  But they bled as they dried and ended up closer to 50 grains heavier after drying.  That drying process took at least a month under fairly warm, sunny conditions, with a fair amount of wiping between.

After playing with the pressurized stuff, I took to just wiping on several coats of tung oil. Usually, 5-6 coats were required to get the coverage/finish I wanted. Don't remember the glue I used, probably Bohning or Duco, and it worked fine as long as the finish was totally dry.  If it wasn't, the glue didn't adhere well. 

Ultimately, I decided it was more trouble than it was worth and went back to harder finishes. 

[Jim Wright]

I have settled on oil based Minwax wipe-on poly. It's easy to apply, dries quickly through 4 coats and it's very durable. A plus is that if you do shoot a LOT and get some target burn, simply scuff the front end with 220 grit and wipe on some more. You're good to go.

[M60gunner]

I use pure tung oil on the unpainted part of the shaft. I like to  cap dip and crest so glue isn't an issue. When I first read about using tung oil the author said he fletched first on bare shaft. I like the oil because I don't get a target burn or annoying little pieces of 3D target stuck to my arrows. When it wears I wipe on another light coat.

[Tajue17]

I remember people using oil to make cedars heavier.... the last few years ive been using min wax waterbased poly with an eco dipper,,, i use surewoods and run them through the dipper at least 5 times. 

Not sure if you knew but alcohol makes a good stain too, you can use food coloring, one color or mix and match,, 3 rivers sells them then clear poly over them.

[BAbassangler]

This guy is from one of my favorite woodworking channels.  This looks like a podcast, but he probably has shorter clips (pretty sure I've seen them) on oil comparisons.  From what I can remember there's polymerizing vs non polymerizing, but eventually the all polymerize...I think, lol.

https://www.youtube.com/live/KmWQxyDidIg?si=WA7O_cUzELIJ3NOj

[BAbassangler]

Not a wood arrow guy, but maybe someday I'd like to make some, so this is definitely of interest.  My guess is Fletch-tite original, and Platinum would stick to any of the natural finishes.  The glue, my guess can go one of two ways. Either soak in, or solvent-weld to the hard surface, depending on which finish you choose.

Just from wood finishing experience, in general.  I would soak, or keep the shafts wet in linseed oil for 15 to 20 minutes; let the thirsty wood have a drink.  Drain and wipe/buff.  Wait 3-4 days to be sure they're done weeping and keep an eye on them, frequently re-wipe/buff.  When dry, pretty much anything will stick and hold glue.

[Tim Finley]

That finish is for furniture not arrows you need a poly , urethane or lacquer for wood arrows with NVP or Duco for glue.

[BAbassangler]

I disagree. Linseed oil is natural and works on wood regardless of its purpose and will accept many topcoats.
Mind is open though. Do you have experience negatively affecting an arrow?

[Otto]

I disagree. Linseed oil is natural and works on wood regardless of its purpose and will accept many topcoats.
Mind is open though. Do you have experience negatively affecting an arrow?

I've refinished several walnut gunstocks with Linseed oil.   Hand rubbed, 10 coats, and it makes a beautiful finish.    The trouble is, it takes FOREVER to dry.   On something like a gunstock, it's gorgeous and worth the effort.   For arrow shafts, that juice ain't worth the squeeze.   MinWax Tung oil or any kind of poly is MUCH easier to work with and dries overnight.

[BAbassangler]

I disagree. Linseed oil is natural and works on wood regardless of its purpose and will accept many topcoats.
Mind is open though. Do you have experience negatively affecting an arrow?

I've refinished several walnut gunstocks with Linseed oil.  Hand rubbed, 10 coats, and it makes a beautiful finish.    The trouble is, it takes FOREVER to dry.  On something like a gunstock, it's gorgeous and worth the effort.  For arrow shafts, that juice ain't worth the squeeze.  MinWax Tung oil or any kind of poly is MUCH easier to work with and dries overnight.

You're right about squeezing juices; it may take longer if it soaks in much.  Boiled linseeed oil evaporates much quicker.  Don't know why they call it boiled, I think it's just mixed with mineral spirits.

[Ramjet]

Many years ago read an article about soaking wood arrows in boiled linseed oil or Danish oil. It was done with a soaking tank made from pvc. I soaked 6 arrows in light walnut Danish oil for a few days probably, don't really remember. I just shot one of those yesterday.  That arrow is at least 15 years old. I used duco cement for the fletching. I may give it a try again

[BAbassangler]

Many years ago read an article about soaking wood arrows in boiled linseed oil or Danish oil. It was done with a soaking tank made from pvc. I soaked 6 arrows in light walnut Danish oil for a few days probably, don't really remember. I just shot one of those yesterday.  That arrow is at least 15 years old. I used duco cement for the fletching. I may give it a try again

Pretty cool they lasted that long. Worth the effort, I'd say so.  A lot of people spend too much time on other aspects of the sport. The arrow doesn't get enough love'n.  My problem is a spine calculator addiction...like someone other than Nancy Pelosi trying to predict the stock market.

[Rob DiStefano]

Any and all oils that are "raw" and not polymerized will never ever fully cure.  This includes BLO and tung.  I would avoid that crap like the plaque they are, and I do.  Better off with any finish that will cure, such as polymerized tung or BLO, MinWax oil based, Tru-Oil, modern lacquers & varnishes, etc.