100gn insert+100gn tip vs 50gn insert+150gn tip

[Flemish Twister]

Aside from reduced broad head blade size with 100gn, I'm wondering if there is a significant effect to arrow flight with more weight out front of the arrow vs more inside the shaft?
Was just playing around with some arrows and only had 100gn inserts on hand which got me to think'in how that might impact shaft spine

[Orion]

Not enough difference for most to recognize.  I do both and can't detect a difference.

[Arctic Hunter]

This is interesting. I've done a lot of research on this exact topic lately. I shoot 5mm shafts and have probably been nerding out on trying to build a more forgiving setup. I've had bows that just tuned easier than others, and I've tried to figure out why.

I've noticed that Olympic and barebow shooters try to keep the arrow node behind the rest. There was a good explanation by a barebow shooter on how that creates a more consistent paradox of the shaft as it leaves the bow, and a more forgiving paradox to a bad release. Looking back at the arrow setups, I've noticed the easiest tuning and most forgiving set ups all had a longer insert and the arrow shaft was cut almost to the riser to get good bare shaft flight. Which I hypothesized was moving the arrow node back behind the pivot point on the strike plate. I checked my current arrow setups ups, which I've had some issues with, and all the nodes were in front of the pivot point.

I guess my theory is, it might not make a lot of difference in how much the shaft flexes or the dynamic spine, but it could make a difference in how consistent the shaft flexes around the riser and leaves the bow. I'm going to try some longer inserts and lighter tips to move the node, just to see if it makes a difference.

Idk... I'm bored, currently injured, and need something to tinker with.

[Flemish Twister]

Love it when I learn something new!  Arrow node is something I never heard of before Arctic Hunter.  Thanks for that!

[Stringwacker]

The further the center mass of the weights are extended; the more they have an effect on reducing the dynamic spine of the shaft...so weights in the shaft will not weaken the shaft as much as the same weight would in front of the arrow (like in a broadhead).

But as others have said, if your bare shaft is tuned well; its not usually going to make a difference that you can see when the feathers are placed on the shaft

[BAbassangler]

I've noticed a difference, and sometimes I haven't, But only on bareshafts.  I will say thank you to Mr Arctic for the node education.  A certain setup was flying great, but always trying new things, I switched to the long Al inserts, and some were longer yet with AL weights added.  My best flying shafts ever with a fixed blade.  Magnus varieties, and a No Mercy.  Would I still hunt with the shorter brass insert? Absolutely, I think when you're shooting the most natural-spined arrow for your bow, that overall weight up front is the biggest factor.  But with the long inserts I hit the dead center too many times @ 15 yards for it not to be a coincidence...I'm a decent shot but this was a step up.

[BAbassangler]

And so it continues...just bought more Al weights to make my inserts longer.  I shot 4 arrows with an insert "node" in front of the rest, and 1 at or past.  The long Al insert/arrow consistently hit closer to center bull...no bull.

[Kirkll]

That is interesting... I too haven't heard of using "Nodes" to help tune your arrows before this. What i have been doing over the last few years that made a HUGE difference is "Spine Indexing".  i've attached a link to a video here.  What this does is eliminate a lot of time bare shaft tuning. Once your arrows are equally matched, (Or as close as possible) you can bare shaft tune using just a couple of shafts and get good consistency on the rest of the dozen.

Until you have actually checked the spine on your carbon arrows like this,You wouldn't believe the difference in spine. Of course if you have 2-3 dozen shafts of the same batch and brand, you can get much closer matched arrows.  You can build your own spine tester pretty cheap with a couple of shelf brackets screwed to a 2X6 or a piece of plywood and use a dial indicator. The exact spine doesn't matter near as much as matching up the deflection of all your shafts.  You wont believe how much these carbon shafts differ. After doing this you will never buy blem arrows again.

This will definitely make the difference between a 10 ring and a 12 ring in accuracy.

https://youtu.be/h3NXPsmF2vU?si=W336XODeIA2zNR-7

Here is another one that is a bit shorter just showing how to find the stiffest part of the shaft. NOTE*  The closer you match the exact spine the more consistent and forgiving your arrows will shoot.

https://youtu.be/k9JplWg1IoM?si=lBxXdRvmIzMXNkRs