Close range options

[BAbassangler]

I am by no means a mathematician OR a rocket scientist...but I aspire to play one on TV.  That being said, It takes time for momentum to build, and most YouTube info is geared towards compound bows >65# and distances >30 yards.
Your choice is a heavy arrow with less FOC, or same spine low GPI and higher FOC.  What'll it be???

For example: 40-45# bow, 500sp, 465gr with 19% foc  vs:  500sp, 435gr, 22%

A third option is "moo" point.

[McDave]

I am by no means a mathematician OR a rocket scientist...but I aspire to play one on TV.  That being said, It takes time for momentum to build.

Like a rocket, an arrow reaches its maximum momentum when it reaches its maximum velocity.  Unlike a rocket, an arrow does not have any internal fuel, so reaches its maximum velocity as soon as it leaves the string.

Excuse my ignorance, but what is "moo" point?

[durp]

The one that flies the best 

[Flemish Twister]

The one that flies the best 

Right on!  Personally I just start with the arrow I want to shoot and try and build up from there.  11-12 grains per pound as the goal. Example my long bow I shoot a .204 ID arrow that has 6.7 gpi. 80 grain inserts and 150 grain BH gets to 460 +/- grain total. Never bothered figuring foc.  I was looking for lighter faster and these fly like lasers. 

[BAbassangler]

Joey Tribiani from 'Friends', wasn't the brightest guy and didn't know moot.  Thanks for the rocketry crash course.  I've been leaning towards "moo", or faster is better, as the ft-lbs, in the 3Rivers calculator are near identical, might as well get the speed as long as quiet enough.

[BAbassangler]

Right on, right on, Flemish Twister and Durp.  I've jumped up 1 and 2 spines and they never fly as good when they're the same length, and always end up around 700gr.  They hit like a freight train, and I get to shoot bigger heads, but they just don't seem to ever bareshaft as well.

[McDave]

Because of my age, I'm relegated to hunting with 40-45# bows, so I have some familiarity with bows in that range.  Both of your examples are close to 10 gpp, which is my preferred arrow weight for hunting.  I prefer your option that uses a lighter shaft and a heavier point weight to get there, as I understand from reading Dr Ashby and others that that configuration is generally more lethal than having the weight more evenly distributed along the arrow.  However, your example are close enough that I'll go with "moo" point.

[BAbassangler]

Thank you McDave.  Too old to go back to school, this'll do.  I think I got lost in the 'heavier arrows shed less momentum' world.  Doesn't seem to make much difference at 0-7.  The data for 700 grain arrows seemed to be more of a bang for your buck with ft#'s.  I think I'll carry one of those for CQB ambush points, with a 3 blade.  Thanks again!

[Friend]

Bow- Covert Hunter 41@28
Arrow- Carnivore 400...100 gn insert...250 gn... 1 ¼ 3-blade VPA
            ...572 Tot Arrow weight...13.95 gpp...29% FOC

***Excellent Bare shaft flight...tested to 30 yards
       All three deer this season had pass thru's, nice blood trails and easy recovery
      Typical arrow build and results used the past 15 years

[BAbassangler]

Bow- Covert Hunter 41@28
Arrow- Carnivore 400...100 gn insert...250 gn... 1 ¼ 3-blade VPA
            ...572 Tot Arrow weight...13.95 gpp...29% FOC

***Excellent Bare shaft flight...tested to 30 yards
      All three deer this season had pass thru's, nice blood trails and easy recovery
      Typical arrow build and results used the past 15 years

I think I need to nit-pick my setup.  I can tune 500's like lasers; shoot well standing upright/bow verticle, and hunting stance with cant.  My 400's, to bareshaft well, are always longer and I lose most of the gain in FOC, and only benefit from the stiffer shaft??
My 500's are 29+ half-out.  Maybe there's a magic centershot adjustment that will suit me best.