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How do i procede (osage self bow)

Started by ironrhino, February 16, 2007, 05:29:00 PM

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0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.

ironrhino

Ok, the deal is i bought this stave a year ago super cheap on ebay... and i got what i payed for... propeller twists, BIG knots, and paper thin rings... however, I've done pretty well thus far i think!

I have two questions:

1. what are my chances with the big knot? Its kind of a wierd position, and it has a crack. but i saw ferrits bendy handle bow and man that thing is so small... and his words of wisdome... "it doesnt take a lot of wood to  make a bow out of osage"

2. What should i back this puppy with I have LOTS of linnen thanks to my local goodwill store, or should i go the rawhide route?

Any and all advice appreciated... now to get my pics from photobucket over to the gang, I'LL BE BACK!!!

ironrhino

OKEY DOKEY..... here we go...

this is the "shop" in my dorm room... my roomate is VERY understanding!!! as long as i vaccuume up my dust and shavings he's cool with it!!!!


ironrhino

OK SWEEET!!!!!! I'M IN BUSINESS!!!

Here's a couple pictures of the knot...


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ironrhino


ironrhino


ironrhino


ironrhino


ironrhino

now, in all honesty... I'm kinda expecting to see this thing explode b/c of the growth rings.

but The SWEET staves that The Ferrit helped me cut arn't anywhere near dry... so those will be summer projects.

I'm just looking for a little project to keep me from studying...

also, if you look to the left of my 'work bench' theres half a dozen premium oak and maple board staves... but this osage bow has been keeping me from starting any other projects... except the Helle knife right in front of my microwave...

ironrhino

oh... i almost forgot about this little gem!!!


ironrhino


Osagetree

IMHO, I think the knot will hold out for you. The rings are thin, but it will hold together without any backing, if you don't try to make it a real heavy draw weight. The worst thing about thin rings is you'll expereince more string follow, especialy if you don't take your time tillering.

Nice work,,, keep us posted!
>>--TGMM--> Family of the Bow

ironrhino

Thanks Osagetree... I'll keep you all posted on the process.

its going to be pretty short... i'm hoping to get about 50lbs, what are my chances?

JBiorn

You probably picked the hardest and most unforgiving woods you could possibly find! However, I think it's not a bad looking stave at all. I would love to see the results.


Jeff

(by "hardest" I mean difficult btw)

tecum-tha

What are the dimensions of your limbs and how long is the your bow compared to your draw length?
Wider and thinner limbs usually will lead to less string follow. The rings are thin, but fiberglass is thin,too,LOL!
Usually osage can handle a lot of stress.
The stave could be worse. Fill that crack with some superglue. With dry osage, the extra wood over the knot may crack away by itself, but that is no problem. It only bothers the bowyer, because he invested some time to work around the knot! ;-)
With this kind of thin growth rings make sure not to draw this bow over your desired draw weight during tillering because of cast robbing string follow!

Lost Arra

Osage unforgiving?? that hasn't been my experience (limited). If the wood is dry and the back ring is intact it seems pretty darn tough.    :thumbsup:

George Tsoukalas

I think you've made all the correct decisions. When you tiller that stave remember to keep that knot a little stiff. That is the knotted area should not bend as much as the surrounding wood. Beginners should back bows. I'd use rawhide assuming you can get the baking over that knot. .Jawge

Buz-AL

I agree that what we've seen looks okay.

Remember that rawhide will not BE a back.  It is a good backing that will hold splinters down, but it will not take over the tension work to keep a "skinned" or cut-through back ring from blowing, as sinew will.

That said, it looks to me that if you have followed that back ring correctly those rings ought to stand the tension.  Its not so much the excess number of rings that allows more follow, as it is the early:late wood ratio. But its always worse with more rings.

Good going...

ironrhino

well, i'm feeling very encouraged right now!

ok the dimensions of the bow:

end to end its 58 1/2"

the handle is 4" and the fades are 1 1/2" (7" of non limb)

the knotty limb is 2" @ the knot then it tapers to 1 1/2 until it gets to the second knot where it is also 2" then it tapers to the nocks.

the clear limb is 1 3/4 @ the fades and tapers gently to the 1/2" nocks

the Ferret

Ryan I 'd seriously consider making this a bendy handled bow. First bow, only 58" long, wood has some issues..why press your luck with 7" of non bending wood?
There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

ironrhino



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