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Need some spine feed back

Started by Caleb the bow breaker, April 08, 2015, 10:08:00 AM

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Caleb the bow breaker

Gang,

Messing with arrows and would like some input from others. My set ups are below.  

Its the same arrow shot out of different bows.  With a bareshaft they seem to really fly nock left which I think is supposed to indicate weak spine.  Looking at charts I guess I find that hard to believe.  Any input would definetly help because I really hate to start shortening arrow shafts if I am wrong.

RER arroyo 62" 53# 29.5"
GT trad 400 (5575) 30.5"
100 gr brass insert
1.5" 2219 footing
200 gr field pt

Kanati 60" 53# 29.5"
GT trad 400 (5575) 30.5"
100 gr brass insert
1.5" 2219 footing
200 gr field pt
Oh squeaky treestand, how I hate thee!

Rock 'N Bow

It sounds like your in the ballpark, considering I shoot a similar setup. I would suggest using a thicker strike plate before cutting arrows. I had the same problem as you, and it was fixed with a simple piece of Velcro.
Todd Henck Longbow 68" 58#@28"
Dave Johnson Longbow 66" 60#@27"
Northern Mist Ramer 64" 50#@27"
Northern Mist Classic 68" 52#@28"
Shrew Hill #1 "Alpha" 67" 48#@28"

Rock 'N Bow

BTW, those spine charts for carbon arrows are notorious for being way overspined. Bare shaft tuning is the best indicator.
Todd Henck Longbow 68" 58#@28"
Dave Johnson Longbow 66" 60#@27"
Northern Mist Ramer 64" 50#@27"
Northern Mist Classic 68" 52#@28"
Shrew Hill #1 "Alpha" 67" 48#@28"

Bjorn

Caleb what distance are you shooting at? A little left lean for a rightie is perfect at 20 yds. Shoot your bare shafts with the bow vertical.

Caleb the bow breaker

QuoteOriginally posted by Bjorn:
Caleb what distance are you shooting at? A little left lean for a rightie is perfect at 20 yds. Shoot your bare shafts with the bow vertical.
Shooting at 10-15 yards.  I would say they are more than a little left but they still hit the target okay.  I will build the plate out with a toothpick or something tonight and see what that does.
Oh squeaky treestand, how I hate thee!

Bladepeek

I agree with not cutting yet. A little difference on the strikeplate might just fix it up. If not, you can always cut later. Fletching will stiffen them a little and if you add both long (5" or more) fletching AND a wrap or cap dip, it could have quite a large effect. Hard to put length back on once you cut it off.

I'm playing with EFOC right now and am finding I have to do it the hard way. I had Stu's calculator dialed in pretty well with my 9 - 11 gpp arrows. With these really heavy head/light tail arrows, mine are still showing just a touch stiff when the calculator says they should be limp as a cooked noodle.

Sure is fun experimenting and learning as I go. Just trying to make every release perfect for the bareshaft testing is tightening my groups. Nice fringe benefit to the testing     :)
60" Bear Super K LH 40#@28
69" Matt Meacham LH 42@28
66" Swift Wing LH 35@28
54" Java Man Elk Heart LH 43@28
62"/58" RER LXR LH 44/40@28

Caleb the bow breaker

I put a matchstick under the strike plate and still tail left but I can't even seem to figure out the nock point so maybe it is operator error
Oh squeaky treestand, how I hate thee!


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