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5 degree glue on broadhead question

Started by Gooserbat, October 06, 2014, 10:59:00 PM

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Gooserbat

For the life of me I can't get them square on the adapter.  What's the secret?
"Four fletch white feathers and 600 grains is a beautiful thing."

Charlie Lamb

Make sure your glue is well melted (hot melt type) then spin the head a couple of full revolutions to spread that glue evenly.
After that they should go on straight easily.
Hunt Sharp

Charlie

Gooserbat

I've done that but I can't get them to spin true.  No matter what they mostly seem to wobble.
"Four fletch white feathers and 600 grains is a beautiful thing."

bigbadjon

The glue should act as a lube to slide everything to the proper depth. Get the head a little hotter to make sure the glue is liquified and press the head into a board or something to make sure it goes all the way on. If it still doesn't work then one of your components isn't square.
Hoyt Tiburon 55#@28 64in
A&H ACS CX 61#@28in 68in (rip 8/3/14)

JimB

Gooserbat,not all broadhead ferrules are created equal.I never was very good at aligning broadheads by spinning.A few years ago,I finally built an alignment jig.I don't spin the arrow,just align the arrows point to a reference dot,turn 90 degrees and align again.It is precise and repeatable and usually very quick.Here is an explanation:
http://www.singlebevelbroadheads.com/Mounting_Aligning_the_Tuffhead.html

Surewood Steve

I get the best results on my 5 degree taper when I use a sanding disc to taper my points.  I also use hot melt glue, spin and press down hard on a oak board.  I rarely have a head that does not spin true.
"If you don't shoot wood arrows out of your Trad bow it is like taking your split bamboo fly rod and fishing with worms and a bobber."

AkDan

another thing you might think about is that tip on even a new head may be off not allowing it to spin true. If you sharpened it you may have put that tip off axis as well.

Terry Lightle

I hold my arrow by the nock about 3 feet above a hard object and drop it on the point which really drives it home.Sometimes it may damage the tip a little but for me I always file the needle point back anyway.
Compton Traditional Bowhunters Life Member

ChuckC

I have some broadheads that slide right in and I have a couple other types that are the Dickens to get straight.  I think that there is more at play here.   The ones that are tougher are both longer, narrow heads.

My shop is not totally finished at the location where I do the glue ups, so I spread the hot melt (or epoxy), apply the head, and press it into the wall, holding the head parallel with a small pliers while pushing and spinning the shaft.  I try to make certain the head is aligned in a parallel plane.

Once it sets at all, I spin test it on a small metal plate I have right there.  When spin testing that way. . note. . if the tip is not right, it could give you false readings.
ChuckC

Hot Hap

How are you tapering your shaft? Which tool?

Gooserbat

"Four fletch white feathers and 600 grains is a beautiful thing."

hvyhitter

might be too much glue, It doesnt take a whole lot to firmly glue a point on.......
Bowhunting is "KILL and EAT" not "Catch and Release".....Semper Fi!

Wapiti Chaser

Check the length of your taper and make sure it isn't bottoming out in the broad head . Easy to check before you put any glue on the shaft.
" Take a kid bowhunting"
New York Bowhunters BOD
PBS Member

rraming

I had trouble just mounting a field point to screw in adapters, maybe it's too much glue as mentioned. I was just goofing around and did not need them.

Roadkill

You can make a quick jig. Make a 90 degree board with two Additional boards with "v"'s  cut in them. Put a squrse BH on the V's and mark the vertical board with a dot. Then spin your new BH with the hot melt and gently push the high side down until they spin true
I made my V's out out of plastic.  This thing will ladt 5 lifetimes
Cast a long shadow-you may provide shade to someone who needs it.  Semper Fi


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