Best way to build out past center shelf?

[Duckbutt]

OK gangers....

My adopted "Uncle Tippit" has been guiding me through setting up the "ultimate for me" ILF rig.  I've finally settled on a 13" Morrison aluminum riser with a Jager grip and Morrison carbon/foam recurve limbs that will be pulling in the low 50s at my draw.  Total bow length is about 58" and the smoothness to quickness ratio is astounding.  My final hurdle was getting the shelf set up to accommodate my canted bow shooting style with this (new world for me) cut past center riser.  I've built out the strike plate to almost a complete half inch using the felt pads for furniture legs but this is obviously just a temporary solution for getting it dialed in.  What would you guys suggest as a more permanent solution for a 1/2" strike plate.  I don't want plungers or attached rests etc.....shelf only.

Thanks!    

[Rock 'N Bow]

I made a modification to my Dorado. I glued together two layers of leather: one from and old tab and the other from a worn out guitar strap. I then added a piece of sealskin. When I was done the arrow rested just shy of center.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I suppose it depends on whether you want a hard strike or a softer strike that works like a plunger would..... i think using hard ladigo leather or soft leather would work just fine as long as you are not hunting in the rain a lot.

If you are a rain hunter i think i would recommend using a piece of plastic under your finish strike material. whether that be seal skin, leather, or velcro, you could still change it out without going through the whole build up process.

I've got all kinds of scrap phenolic here i use for tip overlays that would work excellent. Let me know if that's something you are interested in and i'll send you some.... Kirk

[A.S.]

I bought a small block of Micarta to build a shelf bump on a DAS riser that had no bump. Just shaped it with a belt sander, glued it on, and covered it with velcro. It works perfect!

[Duckbutt]

Those are great ideas.  What type of adhesive would you recommend on the shaped plastic or micarta?  I wouldn't want it falling off unexpectedly but the need to remove if necessary would be a good option.

Thanks again.

[A.S.]

I use a glue that I bought at Lowe's. It is called "Welder". It is in a red tube and red packaging. It stays slightly pliable even after being on for a long time. I have removed my shelf bump after several months with no problems. It holds very tight. Let me know if you have trouble finding it, I can send a pic of the tube.

[Duckbutt]

Kirk, I'd love to get some phenol scraps! Thanks.

I'll try the welder glue and I've got an old seal skin tab I could cut up to finish the phenol bump.

Thanks guys!!

[bob@helleknife.com]

You might also consider balsa wood. Softer, has some give and easy to work with.  At hobby stores and I think ACE hardware.

Bob