60# curve, 28.5" draw, what arrows?

[arrowlauncherdj]

I have been shooting the CE 6075 Termainators with 100 gr inserts and 125 gr heads cut at 29.5".  I have changed some things about my form and gained a little draw, now showing weak, like really weak.  Any guys shoot 60lbs. with that draw or more?  and if so, what arrows do you shoot?

Dave

[arrowlauncherdj]

Stu's calculator says about 8# weak dynamic spine btw with it cut to center like it is.

[Shedrock]

75# woodies, cedar, or Douglas Fir are my faves.

[arrowlauncherdj]

thanks Shedrock... sticking with carbons though.  

[NEB]

I shoot Beeman ICS 300, 100 grain insert, and 250 grain broadheads.

[Dogboy900]

I am shooting 30.5 inch Easton powerflight 340's with 100 grain inserts and 200grain tips. Out of a 60 lb curve 3/16 from centre.

[arrowlauncherdj]

Man all those are way too weak on Stus calculator, Dogboy it says you are over 30# underspined... See this is what I dont get, Stus calculator has always been pretty close when I put my stuff in.  Why am I showing weak as heck when I am only 8# difference and you are 30?  This is frustrating.

[Dogboy900]

Yeah I put those arrows together to shoot with 125grains up front. Then i needed to bump up my arrow weight tried bare shafting with various spined arrows and different lengths and found these seem to fly well with anything from 125 to 250 up front. Bare shafts group well with fletched so I am running with it. To be honest I hate tuning, I get really frustrated and begin to doubt everything I am doing!
Good luck sorting it out.

[Dogboy900]

Oops iphone double posted my original post.

[arrowlauncherdj]

Originally posted by Dogboy900:
Yeah I put those arrows together to shoot with 125grains up front. Then i needed to bump up my arrow weight tried bare shafting with various spined arrows and different lengths and found these seem to fly well with anything from 125 to 250 up front. Bare shafts group well with fletched so I am running with it. To be honest I hate tuning, I get really frustrated and begin to doubt everything I am doing!
Good luck sorting it out.

Dude no kidding, I was doing well til I got another bow and wanted to make them shoot the same.  with a bellymount that I made, I cut it to center... was doing fine, or so I thought.  Got a new ILF type rig, used a bolt for a plunger bc I was hitting way right with its flipper rest and had to put the strike plate at 5/16" set up 5# lighter to get a decent bareshaft...

Anyway, what got me going was the fact that the new rig shot like 4-6" right of the old one.  I figured, well, must be either underspined or just used to aiming more left like a longbow shooter who goes to a curve for the first time... So I said lets bare shaft-- and here came the doubt/problem. Problem: even with my old rig now its showing weak, like 6" right of fletched shafts weak at 18yds, noticeable kick to right. UGH... I may drop point weight and put a wrap on some bare shafts and see if it helps any. If not, I'll have to start cutting down 1/8 at a time or get new shafts.

I have heard about rigs like yours though, where extremely high FOC does unusual stuff when tuning, sometimes to your benefit. Thanks for the replies.

Dave

[Dogboy900]

Just reading this made me start to doubt my set up again, but went out mixing a bare shaft with my fletched shafts (always do now anyway) and its all good  

For what its worth I have found once you find a spine and length that work well you can vary the point weight quite a bit before you affect the accuracy.

Like I said I hate tuning, just want to go out and fling arrows!

[arrowlauncherdj]

I think I must have been tired and torquing the bow or something bc I went back out today more fresh and bareshafted again at 18-20yds and got a little nock high but the bare shafts hit right with the fletched ones dead center.

Worry averted but I will probably keep throwing a bare shaft in my practice sessions as a form trainer.