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building extream FOC arrows

Started by Blaino, May 24, 2011, 03:45:00 PM

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Blaino

do i need to go up a size in spine to make up for the extra weight up front?

i'm pulling 65# @ 30".... most charts put me in the 400 class.  i feel like i should get some 340 spine arrows.  any information will help.

blaino
"It's not the trophy, but the race. It's not the quarry,
but the chase."

JimB

So many variables.I would want to know what normal FOC arrow would tune well for the bow first.You may be able to get a test kit from someone or give more specifics about your bow so someone could give you advice on a setup for say the 400's.From a normal FOC arrow setup,I would jump up 2 spine groups to go to a high FOC.Stu's calculator is good for figuring standard setups but doesn't seem to compute the high FOC stuff.

Blaino

my bow is a 62" wisperstik recurve.  if your not familuar just think 50's style.  i can't down load stu's calculator at work...
"It's not the trophy, but the race. It's not the quarry,
but the chase."

JimB

I pull 55# on a Whisperstik Mojo and use a 340 shaft to get 29-31% FOC.400 spine would get me in the upper teens,maybe 18-19%.I think,and this is only a wild guess,that 340's might give you FOC in the mid 20's range.I would start with a full length shaft,100 gr insert and 250 gr point and be prepared to go heavier or lighter if you need to.You can use different weight steel adapters and glue on field points to customize weights if you need to.I think 400's would get you in the normal range of FOC.

Looper

I think you're way too weak at a 400.  Of course we need to know more specifics about your setup.  I'm thinking you'll need closer to a 300 spine, especially if you're going to go with a heavy head.

Jeff Mundy

I would go with 340s. I shoot full length 400s out of my 50 lbs. @ 28" recurve with 300 grains up front.

cch

I have a friend that shoots a 66# Schafer at 29" and he shoots .300 spine arrows with a 200 gr. head. If you want to go really heavy you might be looking at a .250 spine unless your bow is not cut much past center.

Friend

My actual set-up:

51 @ 28 (1/8" past center)-actual draw just past 28"

Victory HV 350...29.5"(6.7 gpi)...100g insert...300 gn head...615 g total...32% Ultra-EFOC

"Bow's required dynamic spine is 70# where my actual arrow is 40#s".

This set-up is tuned to place a 1.5" Big 3 right next to a fletched shaft from 5 to 25 yards.

Be ready for excessive target wear.
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

katman

Depending on centershot and limb efficiency I am leaning towards 300 spine for EFOC with your 30" draw.
shoot straight shoot often

Blaino

Thanks for the help boys.  sounds like i got a lot of tinkering to do....
"It's not the trophy, but the race. It's not the quarry,
but the chase."

Ringneck


Mint

Yes, when going to EFOC I needed to go from GT35/55 to GT 55/75's and they fly great.
The Constitution shall never be construed... to prevent the people of the United States who are peaceable citizens from keeping their own arms.

Samuel Adams

NYB Life Member
NRA Life Member

amicus

Im pulling 60# @ 29" and using full lenghts 340. They fly great with 400 grains up front.

Gilbert
The blessing of the Lord, it maketh rich and He addeth no sorrow with it. Prov 10;22

A sinner saved by Grace.

Ray Hammond

Blaino

If you are using carbons, the easiest way is to buy the heaviest shaft they make- and throw weight on it to make it the right spine.

In that way, you achieve max FOC. Especially with your long draw length, you'll need the high spine.
"Courageous, untroubled, mocking and violent-that is what Wisdom wants us to be. Wisdom is a woman, and loves only a warrior." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Blaino

should i be bare shafting at the same time i'm figering out my efoc?

it seem like i would be killing 2 birds with 1 stone that way.....
"It's not the trophy, but the race. It's not the quarry,
but the chase."

Looper

I would, but if you have the broadheads you want to use, I'd shoot them with the field points first.  If they're hitting the same spot, you're good to go and don't need to fool with the bareshafting.


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