Bare Shaft Tuning Advice w/Pics

[SteveB]

The reason you shoot fletched with bare shafts(planing method for tuning popularized by OL Adcock)to compare groups is to eliminate all other influences to bs flight such as nock tightness and minor form inconsistencies. How the bs flies or impacts the target has nothing to do with anything using this method. Every thread on bareshaft tuning always has those who confuse the 2 methods or want to combine them often causing more confusion then help.

[3undr]

no you are not right on your bare shaft is too stiff. i'll say if you increase the point weight the point will stay the same but the nock will move left to match the fletched arrow. nock right for a right hand shooter is too stiff spine and the only way to weaken the shaft is to add point weight.I start with a full length shaft knowing it will be weak and then cut 1/4 inch at a time until the the nock hits straight in line with the point. It works for me

[SEMO_HUNTER]

The calculator said my shaft was about 1.5 pounds stiff to start with and I should have known better to start there because my Grizzly likes them a little on the weak side anyway. I went from a 125gr. point plus 60gr. weight behind the insert, then the weight of the insert to equal 198gr. total tip wt, then I switched to a 145gr. point plus all the added wt. for a total tip wt. of 218gr. and they straightened out pretty good.

I'll either add more wt. behind the insert so I can shoot my 125gr. Snuffers, or maybe trade or buy some 150's??
I think the 150's have a wider cutting diameter if I'm not mistaken?

Thanks for all the help fellas, I may need some more before I'm done.

[schlaggerman]

I'll bet with the added tip weight your arrows are flying better now, bareshaft or fletched. Good shooting Semo.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Yes and I noticed the increase in penetration. They sink much deeper into the target and thump quite a bit harder than my lighter arrows for my flatbow do. I can tell a definite difference in the added FOC and weight up front. These should flat out smack anything I wanna put one in.

Something else that's kinda weird, they really didn't seem to slow down much either? The velocity seems the same, but they hit with so much more authority and don't drop like I thought they would??
Is that due to the EFOC??

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Originally posted by SEMO_HUNTER:
The calculator said my shaft was about 1.5 pounds stiff to start with and I should have known better to start there because my Grizzly likes them a little on the weak side anyway. I went from a 125gr. point plus 60gr. weight behind the insert, then the weight of the insert to equal 198gr. total tip wt, then I switched to a 145gr. point plus all the added wt. for a total tip wt. of 218gr. and they straightened out pretty good.

I'll either add more wt. behind the insert so I can shoot my 125gr. Snuffers, or maybe trade or buy some 150's??
I think the 150's have a wider cutting diameter if I'm not mistaken?

Thanks for all the help fellas, I may need some more before I'm done.

Edit for total pt/tip wt change. That's 218gr. up front and not 208gr. I guess I'm mathmatically challenged today?

I did order some 100gr. brass inserts from Braveheart Archery today, so with my 125gr. Snuffers that will give me 225gr. up front and should be nearly perfect.
At least I won't have to pop for new broadheads this way.  

[Bow Bum]

The pics look to be stiff.

I have a K-hunter that likes the arrow dynamic spine to be about 2lbs lower than the bow dynamic spine when setting up with Stu's calc. I also had nock right indication out to 30 yards bareshaft when I was running too stiff an arrow. When I get the arrows right I can group bare with fletched to 30 yards. The bare shaft will also stick in the target in the same relative plane as the fletched. provided nock point on string is good.

Your on the right track.

Good luck!

Brian