Securing inserts when tuning carbons?

Killdeer · February 21, 2011, 07:41:00 PM

About as tight as a standard Gold Tip insert in a standard Gold Tip shaft... :rolleyes:

Pulls out easily with fingers. I had hotmelted an insert in, but because I did not prepare the shaft, it pulled out on the first shot. Played with the plastic that the inserts came in and it failed, so I used the tape. The tape is usually used as temporary nock points on a new string, so it was in the quiver.

I have used Scotch tape, too. Play around to find out how much you need.

Killdeer

Huntschool · February 21, 2011, 08:18:00 PM

Thanks darlin... thats a heck of an idea.. Hat Dang we are inventive arent we...

Hey , is Fibber McGees's closet near Staunton? I was there last July. I never thought... perhaps..

You can PM the reply if ya want

Red Dwarf · February 21, 2011, 08:23:00 PM

Mono fishing line it is: works like a dream, really holds!

Many thanks Rusty1 & all.

Red Dwarf

Killdeer · February 21, 2011, 08:36:00 PM

Looks like Rusty wins the prize!
Uh... what IS the prize?

The Closet is in Northern VA. I wish to heck it was near Staunton.
Killdeer :(

Passthru · February 21, 2011, 09:28:00 PM

Hotmelt works great. It can even be used with HIT shafts like an Axis. Here's how:

Get two, 2" long 8/32 brass machine screws and two brass nuts. Brass transmits heat faster than steel. Double nut one screw at the depth you want to place the insert. Use that one to place the insert. Heat the screw until glue melts on the insert and no more. Place the insert quickly and immediately dip screw and all in water to cool. Use a drill bit by hand to clean the excess glue from the inside of the shaft.

To remove an insert, screw in the bass screw without the nuts. Heat the end of the screw well away from arrow. Check it periodically with pliers and pull as soon as possible. Water dipping isn't necessary when removing an insert if you pull it as soon as the glue softens.

Montanawidower · February 21, 2011, 10:23:00 PM

I use 1 1/4 turn of electrician's tape. I've used it for years. Wrap it with very tight tension over insert, shaft, and field tip. It only adds a few grains and holds like a champ. (even in moderate foam targets)

RUSTY1 · February 22, 2011, 06:45:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by Killdeer:
Looks like Rusty wins the prize!
Uh... what IS the prize?

WOO HOO!!!! :D

Rusty

Red Dwarf · February 23, 2011, 06:16:00 PM

We are all prize recipients with Rusty as the donor; mono fishing line is the best method that I have tried to date.
I found various types of tape just got pushed down to the end of the insert: internal tapering of the end of the carbon shaft helped a little but I did not like the idea of weakening that critical part of the arrow.
Trying the shopping bag method just resulted in 5/16 holes being "punched" out of the bag.

Thanks again Rusty1

RD

RUSTY1 · February 23, 2011, 08:40:00 PM

No problem!! Feels good to actually contribute something more here than "nice looking bow" or "great buck"!

Rusty

Javi · February 23, 2011, 08:57:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Huntschool:
McDave.. I have been doing it this way for some time (10 years or so) and I can not say it has disintegrated (melt) or otherwise denigrated the carbon on any shafts I have. I have some shafts that are 7+ years old an have had the heck shot out of them. I learned the hard way by using too much heat.

I agree if it gets too hot you can have a problem which is why I said just the tip and to keep trying to turn them. I also "dunk" the shaft in room temp water after removing the insert.

Been doing this since carbon shafts hit the market... I've never ruined a shaft by this method.