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brace height vs nock height

Started by mattmcdonald, July 11, 2010, 08:02:00 PM

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mattmcdonald

curuious as to how much effect moving your brace height has on your nock height

Bjorn


Bill Carlsen

Once you have the correct nocking point nothing about changing the brace height should change it. If you  have an ILF bow that you can change the tiller on then that would change it. As long as the tiller remains unchanged then the dynamics of the iimbs as they relate to the nocking point will be constant.
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vernon

thats good to know.  I always worried about that too.  I would always check and double check my nock point after tinkering with brace height and thought for sure it had to change or would affect my arrow flight.  Now I know:)  thanks guys!!!

Flying Dutchman

What you have to keep in mind: first you adjust your braceheight. When you've got your BH at the proper value, THEN install your nocking-point at the right hight.

If your BH moves,your nockingpoint will move with it. Shorter BH means higher nocking point and higher BH means lower nocking point.
When you put your BH back at the proper value, the nocking point will automatically be at the right hight, because you set it at that BH
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yamapup

Yesterday, I changed my BH from 6 3/8 to 6 5/8. My nocking point moved down about 1/16 inch. Always check and reset a nocking point. I think the NP will change more if your string is well used and stretched. Pup

Lee Robinson .

The most likely reason a nocking point is altered when brace height is changed is because the string wasn't made properly. When the body of a string doesn't have any twists in it, the strands that make up each bundle should not be wrapped around each other. This helps the string lay "round" once the body is twisted. If the bundles are already wrapped/twisted themselves prior to adding twists to the body, then when you twist the body it is unlikely those twists would be evenly distributed as they are going to be distributed in a manner that works in a manner that offers the least amount of resistence against the "pre-wrapped" up bundles.

The way one can confirm this is by removing all the twists from the string and holding it straight. When this is done, not only should the bundles be easily seperated, but the strands within the bundles should also be easily seperated. If the bundles are wrapped, the string was made wrong and it is possible that these bundles have more twists on one side of the string's serving than on the other side as it is unlikely those twists were evenly distributed prior to serving the string (since it was made by someone that doesn't know how to properly make a flemish string).
Until next time...good shooting,
Lee


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