Howard Hill broadhead

[jim ratcliff]

saw these in the new 3 rivers catalog...im eyeballing the woodsmans myself but these Howard Hills look awesome...anyone use these?  

[moebow]

I've used them for years.  Partly because they were designed by the "Old Master."  His claim that they don't wind plane and penetrate better than any other design may have been surpassed with more modern designs, but...  I think they are still one of the best in that regard.  They are a challenge to sharpen due to the concave edge.  The ferrel gets in the way and makes it hard to get the best edge bevel angle.  Howard liked a file produced edge on his blades and if done slowly and correctly  will give an awsome edge.

Bottom line, you'll like how they fly and penetrate just don't expect to get them sharp in a minute or two.  It'll take some time and a learning curve.

[Orion]

I agree with Moebow.  They fly like darts, but are difficult to sharpen.

[rickshot]

Yup...some years ago I was shooting them through my 76# Brackenberry. The higher than most weight probably optimized the dart like performance of my longish shafts and could have easily had enough potential remaining to take down a second deer after passing through the first. Like 'em a lot and soon as I build the draw weight back up will shoot them again. Rick.

[George D. Stout]

I took a nice buck with one in 1992.  They fly perfectly and you can get them sharp with a file and stone....and patience.  Some folks will want to tell you they aren't durable because they are riveted with an aluminum ferrule, but they have taken big, mean African game on many occasions...Hill himself, and Bob Swinehart.  And.....they look really cool on wooden arrows.

[Hud]

I use them and the Grizzly heads. Take a few minutes to take the needle point off, and try sharpening on a 10" single cut file, by laying the file on a table, set the head on the file and pull head, or reverse file and push, taking care to retain the bevel. It won't take much to sharpen, then strobe with leather to remove burr, finish by pushing or pulling the edge of the file across the blade away from the blade. Done lightly, once or twice it puts a fine saw tooth edge on the blade and will cut thru a leather strap without much pressure. The toughest part is maintaining the original bevel.

[grouseshooter002]

If nothing else they will scare em to death. I agree it takes a bunch of effort to sharpen the first time, but after that they are easy to maintain. If you find a B/H that flies better than the Hill head please let me know.

Rick

I was given  a couple dozen left wing single bevel from a local friend.  He made a jig to grind them, I think.  Deadliest thing I have ever used. Last year my son shot a whitetail on the move with a file sharpened 140 grain, just like the Hill site recommends. Arrow went through the far side scapula and kept on going. the blood trail did not start for twenty yards, then it was heavy right up to the deer which was about 30 yards further, 50 yards total. The entry wound was two inches wide and the arrow cut an artery off the top of the heart. That same file sharpened broadhead has killed three deer so far. I think they may be a little cheaper other places. I shot a 150 pound doe with a 140 grain Hill and a 36 pounds at 26.5" longbow once, because of an injury from shooting a 96 pound bow. I got 6 feet of penetration and the doe ran 80 yards before dropping.  That broadhead was sharpened with a dremmel tool and a diamond hone.

[SuperK]

Try using the "Wheelie" sharpener that Simmons used to sell.  It was and is made by Rada (?) knife company.  It was the only way I could get an edge on one that I liked.  I killed a big ole doe with one a couple of years ago.  It blew threw her so quick I thought I missed her.  I agree with the others, they fly like field points.