tuning arrows to my Hill, "HELP"

[far rider]

Ok folks,
I am embarrased to admit this, but my desire to become a better archer is over whelming! I haven't tuned a set of arrows to any of my traditional bows. I just buy a set of arrows that are supposed to match by the spine chart and go to it. As you can imagine, it ain't pretty. It doesn't really matter, because I love shooting my bows. However, I enjoy hunting....a lot! So being an ethical hunter means I leave my bow at home far too often, and when I do take I am more of an observer than a participant. It hasn't really been a big deal, because I have had so little time to hunt. That's changing in 2010 and I want to use my bow....a lot!

Now, the kicker. I want to stay with wood shafts, but.....I have a 31" + draw to anchor, so I need full length shafts.

I am ready for the masters to treat me to their knowledge. Thanks in advance!

Tim

[moebow]

Far rider,  Can't help without the draw weight of your bow.  Either at your draw length or what's marked on the bow.

[far rider]

Funny, sorry brother. My Hill was ordered as a 55 lbs @ a draw of 31 1/2". It's a 68" Wesley Special. Thanks!

[moebow]

I'd go with wood shafts with a spine range of 65-70#.  Most wood shafts are only 32" long in their raw form so you may have trouble with length especially with a broadhead.  You may be able to find longer shafts by contacting Hildebrandt(Sitka Spruce) or Surewood (Douglas Fir).

[Loosenock]

Far Rider I'll give it stab, here is how I go about tuning mine.

You need to have someone help you mark your true length of pull.  If I am not mistaking the length of pull on Hill bow is measured to the front of the bow, not the back or belly.  If I am wrong, someone chime in and correct me.  You might find that your LOP is something else on the HH bow when you grip with a low wrist.

Once you determine your length of pull, put your bow in a vise and use a spring scale or on a 2x4 on a bathroom scale, go to a bow shop but find out how much you are pulling at the LOP.

Because a Hill bow in not center cut you will need to shoot about 5 pounds lighter than what your pulling.

Lets say your drawing 52# @ 30" draw.  You would need to subtract 5# for not being center cut and add 5# of spine for each inch over 28, so I would suggest 55-60 spine arrows would be a start.  If you do indeed draw 55# @ 31 1/2, then I agree with moebow that 65-70 spined shafts would be a good start.

Good luck

I would order a spine test kit from surewoodshafts.com or rosecityarchery.com that would give you a couple of spined shafts above and below where you think you are then bare tune various shafts for your perfect match.

'Loose

[far rider]

The way I measured my drw was to take a full length shaft, with no point on it, but with a nock. I nocked it and drew to anchor. At that point I had my wife mark the arrow on the front side of the bow. I did this 10 times to make sure I was being consitant while she watched to make sure I was pulling to the same point each time. Then I measure from the deepest point on the nock to the mark on the shaft. 31 1/2", so I had my custom bow ordered at the weight I wanted at a 31 1/2" draw, Figured this was the correct start.

[Ragnarok Forge]

If you have trouble finding shafts long enough, buy footed shafts.  Some of the sponsors on here can hook you up.  The hardwood footing toughens the arrows up you can add all the length you need, and increase FOC on your arrows.

[far rider]

Thanks Loewll, I had not even thought of footed shafts. Thanks!